Hacks & Odds
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@notsure If it works that's pretty useful. I despise having to take mine off.
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@lia i use extenders too cuz of the stock fender so a bit more torque on the fasteners. the bottom of ff are hollow, so what i did is use the bolts to bond a flat piece of plastic to the bottom, used denatured alcohol to clean the shit out of it, then used some 2" industrial hook n loop. there's a bunch to choose from, but it works well enough that i haven't bothered actually screwing them down. removing them degrades the fastener over time, but its easy enough to replace. i first tried it just to sort out the best position for each fin.
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Vietquocnguyen over on reddit has made their own snow chain from 15ft of chain at Home Depot for just $9.
In the post there's a video alongside those images above of it riding over some uneven snow covering and handling it pretty well.
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A bit odd, I picked up just a single BANG Bumper for the front of my Plus. The freewheel brakes on the back are an innovation of mine that I treasure, and I do not want to give them up -- I want friction there, not slipperyness! For the front I wanted the slippery-slide in case of a nosedive, so it will slide in the direction my momentum is headed. In my shoulder slam almost a year ago a Fang yoke actually broke, likely because the Fang was not quite in line with the momentum of force. Of course I was carving at the point of battery cut-out.
Another, more day-to-day reason I want a BANG Bumper on the front is for adding slipperyness to scraping a corner of the Onewheel on tight turns. Maybe I will be able to recover more often -- with fewer bails.
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@s-leon said in Hacks & Odds:
I want a BANG Bumper on the front is for adding slipperyness to scraping a corner of the Onewheel on tight turns
Watching the corner barely hover above the ground on a tight turn is nerve-racking especially with the loss in clearance with float plates.
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@lia -- With the Ignite Lift Kit (coupled with Skyjacker Rails) I was able to cut tight turns mostly with abandon, only scraping lightly twice that I remember in literally thousands of miles, and not having to bail either of those times. But since moving my controller to Ruckus Rails (and with no lift) to put on the Kiil Ride Suspension... I had to learn all over again the limit of the low I could dip.
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@s-leon I'm curious about your freewheel brakes, how do they work and any pictures?
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@lemur -- Ha! The freewheel brakes are just crude. I think you must have seen the photo of skid marks from a freewheeling cut-out the very day I put them on -- from black rubber bicycle tire chunks screwed into the back rails and curving up behind like the toes of Aladdin's slippers. Crude, but truly effective! I am not sure why the power cut out that particular time, but most often my power cut-outs have been due to regen going downhill on top of CarvePower booster amperage. Then, when that happens, I am dragging slippery tail freewheel-accelerating because of gravity down the hill... and, before I thought of the freewheel brakes I would crash! Now, the strips of black rubber have proven to dissipate energy nicely!
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[Maybe I should'a asked away straight from Jacob, but...]
@s-leon could you plz clarify what's the difference between Skyjacker Rails and McJacker Rails. If there's any dif at all besides the existence/nonexistence of central hole?Also... assuming the Skyjacker's (the discontinued ones?) had the same 1/8" lift as McJ. -- How could you pair these with Ignite Lift Kit (at lifted setup) if that causes a gap between these two?
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@sirgu -- Skyjacker Rails have a quarter inch lift, and so I put in a tight quarter inch steel shim the entire length of the Ignite Lift Kit to make it fit -- and it does so very well! To tell you the truth I have not seen the McJacker Rails to compare and contrast the two sets.
The reason I started using extended rails in the first place was that Onewheeling in snow and slush was causing ice build-up, restricting tire clearance, and difficult to clear. My tire froze solidly in place a couple times -- one key is simply don't stop for anything! The extended rails help a lot, too.
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Oh I see! So the 1/4” vs 1/8” lift seems like the main dif. I had not seen the specs of Skyjacker since they are not listed.
So, back in a day your overall lift was (1/4” + 1.18in) ~1.43 inches [~36.5mm] -- How did you cope with wire harness?
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@s-leon said :
The reason I started using extended rails in the first place was that Onewheeling in snow and slush was causing ice build-up, restricting tire clearance ...
FYI, I do have XcalibuR's on order (for some reason formerly called 'Ruckus Rails'). But my reasons differ from yours... ;)
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@sirgu -- To install the lift kit with the added lift of the rails I simply did not pin down the harness with the clips. Then later I took the battery box out entirely, routing the power cables up to EGO batteries.
And I am curious about your reasons for wanting extended rails -- a larger tire?
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@s-leon said :
... -- a larger tire?
Affirmative, mister!
This, plus other (uncommon) ongoing intentions more in detail rather later. May I act first, share later. If necessary at all.
EDIT:I'm darn slow with my own stuff off the work. Not nearly quarter as productive as Lia or Lemur 'n amazing ppl here. Def not multitask-ish as Lia at all. -
@s-leon so i am currently waiting for the gt40mod folks to release a standalone Pint wiring harness kit. that thing looks really well conceived! it just modifies the fender or fender delete, uses the existing vent to access the housing, and the harness itself just plugs right in. that would be a great standalone purchase for a pint! add a fuse n a diode or two to keep things flowing the right direction. maybe make it wireless so u can pair it an app or something like a wireless battery gauge? perhaps fit a gps module in there too? add some 20" rims! more of a wish list of features i suppose, but id buy it in a heartbeat!
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I have an idea for a fender. Lately I've been riding with a kitchen stock pot -- which has been working well, although it is higher than needed. In the past couple years I have made several evolutions of a wooden fender -- of course, wetness plays havoc. So, now, my new idea is to weld plastic; that way in or on the fender I could create dedicated battery spaces and strap down points. I see numerous plastic welding kits online. Anyone have experienced advice on welding plastics?
Oh. And I do have welding experience with other materials -- for some years I worked as an industrial/scientific glassblower with fused quartz -- mostly on a lathe with hydrogen/oxygen torches, but I also would weld repairs and heavy quartz flange rings onto large tubes.
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Here is an odd one:
Out riding lately in the cold weather (the Fahrenheit teens), with my board-with-no-battery stored out in my car everyday and every night -- just about 24/7, I have been having awful Onewheel wobbles for miles on end -- with my mind, of course, searching for possible causes.
Well, today was nice weather, partly sunny almost in the Fahrenheit 60's -- good for eighteen Onewheel miles -- and no wobbles at all!!!
I think the Armor-Dilloz freeze, or at least congeal, in an off-center lump that then I have been fighting with round-and-round.
For the next cold spell I think I am going to put on a motor I have with an unArmor-Dillozed tire.
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So, I didn't think TFL would come out with GT float plates so fast, so I ordered a couple pieces of slippery UHMW plastic to make my own. I went half the thickness of float plates so it would be easier to work with. I have the float plates on order, but I had already set my mind to making these, so I did. My GT should arrive tomorrow, so hoping it comes in good working order, I plan to slap these on.
I am not sure how they will hold up compared to the real thing, but they were cheap and I mostly enjoyed making them. Because I went with a thinner sheet, I purposely didn't screw them on, and instead used 3M VHB. So, another part of the experiment will be to see if they stay on.
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So, the 3M double-sided VHB did not hold, I have to say that I was kind of expecting that. For the next round, I am trying Gorilla Glue. It has a stronger bond, but dries hard and is easy to remove if it doesn't work.
While it was still on there, curb nudges were a blast. The compound I bought might be more slippery than what TFL uses. That, coupled with the power of the GT really makes it easy to pop up the curb.
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GT so much better today!
I saw Jake's review of OneTrickWheel Floaties (https://youtu.be/CuV2qOor5dA?t=0 ) and ordered 2 sets before the video was over. I am a HUGE fan of ElectricBigfoot HoverPads, but I have corresponded with Jason and he doesn't have an ETA. When they do come out, I have every intention of buying them and expect them to be better than the Floaties for me and what I am looking for.
All that said, I have the Floaties today, so how to make them more like EB HoverPads? I took my belt sander and made the top smooth. I also added concave into the foam itself, and I shaped it so there is now a nice, smooth concave instead of the sort-of concave (but really just having a lip around the outside) on the GT footpads. I removed my back grip tape, but applied the front on top of the GT grip tape, not wanting to mess with the sensors just yet. Then, I applied C&R grip tape over them. I bought two sets, so if the front one comes off, I have another pair to further experiment with.
In the end, they are like a small EB HoverPad, and the ride is so much better. I mean, so much better! I can't wait to try them out on a trail. If you think the stock GT footpad is just too hard and you are getting bounced around too much, I recommend looking into Floaties while we are waiting for ElectricBigfoot to release GT HoverPads.
