I went for a nice ride on the south seawall to buy the best fish 'n' chips from Go Fish in Vancouver. I'm pretty sure Britain has way better fish 'n' chips though.
I stopped along the seawall on a bench to eat my meal, so good!
A man with a little girl( his daughter) stopped and asked me about my suspension onewheel, seems like he knew a lot about onewheels.
He finally introduced himself as Ondy Ma, the founder of Surfwheel, he was quite interested in my board. I went on to tell him the original "wood" Surfwheel that was the first onewheel I ever vesc'd with a Trampa 6 .
Funny you never know who you meet.

I took a Pint controller, both boxes and a stock battery but no bms in part trade at $50 value. However, the controller suffered damage from a vnr that shorted out.
Testing the controller revealed a massive short that blew the fuse on my test harness.
Probing with a ohmeter showed a short between a phase connector and ground, so further testing came up with shorted mosfets controlling that phase connector.
I didn't have new mosfets, but I had harvested a few used ones, it was straight forward hot air replacement. I ordered new mosfets now TPH2R608NH
The controller works well now and been patched with Rewheel.

@lia I was cringing when they were poking their fingers in the bms area.
I don't think they know that "voltage'' symbol and orange cable means high voltage that can kill, all Jeff said was "cool orange cable".
Orange cables in hybrid and ev cars means " don't touch, don't probe, don't disconnect".
I worked as a government certified auto mechanic for road service CAA -Canadian Auto Association and we had auto makers put on seminars on their ev's all saying don't f with orange cables.
I know there's a argument about AC high voltage is more dangerous than DC high voltage eg. Edison vs Tesla, however I would be really careful with high voltage of any sort.

Since there's a renewed interest in the Rewheeded OG Pint , it's time to expand the Pint range beyond the JW/Chi battery.
I had Lia's battery box printed up last year, but there was no real advantage past the Jw battery as I hated riding the Og Pint with it's wicked pushback, but with Rewheel, it's my favorite board.
I followed the writeup in Reddit, I had to open up two low mileage Pint batteries to salvage 30 cells. I have to buy a bit of large blue shrink wrap to make it look nice.
https://www.reddit.com/r/onewheel/comments/z75ivc/built_a_pintx_battery_for_the_pint/
But seriously, does the PX rear bumper make my butt look big?

A fellow local group member asked me to resolder the footpad sensor connector in the controller, he brought in the controller only, already taken apart, I replaced the footpad connector as it was too badly damaged and reflowed the hall connector.

A week later he had a code 16 and again asked me to repair his board, this time he brought in the complete board. The poblem was broken wire in the harness.
After reassembling the board, now a code 3 (over voltage) code came up, I had to open up the contrller and he had used thick silicone insted of flowable silicone.

It took an hour just to open the controller up and clean up the mess. It looked like he had damaged the 80v cap and the inductor during his assembly, but replacement of those parts did not cure the code 3. I now had to go into the battery box, no thick silicone on this, I used my test bms and the code 3 was gone, so the problem in in his bms, after consulting a bms repair expert, he advised to check the small capacitors to the left of the Max chip as they get knocked loose, however they looked fine, but the caps were coated with a real thick coat of conformal.
I used a toothpick and poked around the caps to remove the conformal and two caps came off with the conformal. I resoldered those back on and the code 3 was gone.
I rode the board for a few days and all seemed to be fine, but that is not to be, yesterday, I tried to test ride it again and a code 16 came up. I opened up the controller box again and test contiuity on the bms data wires and all was fine.
Then I used my test harness and the code 16 was still there.
I then used my test bms and the code 16 was gone, so the problem is in the original bms. I checked the bms write up and looks like the Vp1786 transceiver chip may be the problem, I had a few of those chips so no harm replaceing it, after scaping away the thick conformal, the chip pretty well fell off, two legs came unsoldered, replacement was straight forward but had be be careful not to lift the solder pads. No more cde 16 after that chip replacement.

I went for a long ride and turned the board on and off many times with no trouble codes.
Those early 4206 bms's were rumored to be troublesome, also if you need to replace the controller lid seals. I used thin double sided tape, but run your fingers over the part of the tape that you dont want to stick to the plasic case.

@ed_co Did the conversion today, I have to make another shim as the present one is a little too thin, leaving too little axle endplay. It runs ,but can't upload a video.

I machined this 6061 aluminum Pint end cover while waiting for the Pint 357 skeletons to arrive. I really have to buy some Ti fasteners.
No cnc involved, just mind numbing measuring and hand machining.

@ed_co No, I don't have cad capabilities, sorry. I'm the last of the old school that draw plans on a napkin and figures out the procedures and machining in my head.
My lathe and milling machine are all manual with DROs.
I finished the offset axle project today.
-1.jpg)

These new 357 rails are way too nice for a everyday rider.

@glyph I've got the shims made, I'll get them in the mail shortly.

@thedoc2025 Do you get any error messages on the "Float control" app?
Also before you change any settings, back up your configurations.

@kusosan I never used the Thor 300 rgb light control, as there seems to be a lot of confusion and wiring issues.
Instead I used buck converters from the aux, ardruino nano for rear lights and white led strips for front lights. That system has been working well so I didn't feel the need to change it. There's a picture of my Thor300/XR set up earier in this post.
I'm no longer running a Thor and have moved over to Ennoid MK8 vesc now.

@lia Thank you!

My main board is now 27s1p (113volts) using Molicel 45b's. It's not top speed I was after, but the quick acceleration that I like and the rock study nature of the ride.
Specs:
-27s1p Molicel 45b's
-Ennoid MK8 controller
-Stokedstock semi dumb BMS which has it's own app to show cell voltages
I choose 113v because GTS chargers are easily available and especially ones that have the charge connector cut off for 30-32 volt vesc conversion. My charger was gifted to me because the charge end was cut off.
Since the MK8 has no useable aux power out for lights, I went with a flashlight with a cheap tailight mounted with a bicycle snap on flashlight holder, I ride goofy so this setup works for me.

@kusosan I used no paste or pad at first, then I tried thermal paste, but there was no difference in max temp. although I live in the the cool Pacific northwest.

@kusosan I made mine, just a simple 1/8 sheet . You can mount directly to the thin aluminum lid , but I decided to use a plate to stiffen the lid and also so I can use counter sink screws to mount the Thor.

@charve You can use the Pint battery to test your Xr. I'm not familiar with th e torquebox setup, but you can put up to 27s1p 21700 cells in a stock (with slight mods) , I'm running 24s1p because I have an 100v charger from a dead EUC.

@lia You are a perfectionist! I can't believe the attention to the smallest detail!
Totally insane!

Third model suspension build almost done.
-Ennoid mk8 vesc
-Stokedstock bms
-Stokedstock V3 footpad sensor
-24s1p Molicel 45b cells
-Ohlins TTX air shock 190 x 45mm
-Pint wheel
-Burris 11x5.5x6 Tx22 tire
-Rails are 5/8 inch longer and professioally painted
-Fm wood footpads

• 1/8 inch aluminum plates under the footpads
  -Custon wiring harness, no lights yet
  I have to source mini fenders to fit.

@blankman Dowgrading with stlink requires that you have extracted your bootloader and settings for the correct serial number, mileage.
If you use someone else's bootloader and settings then you need a special program to change the serial number, mileage.
After stlink, then you can Rewheel with encrpted file 5040, if you don't have the 5040 file then no point going any further.
What was your goal try to get into factory mode?