I went for a nice ride on the south seawall to buy the best fish 'n' chips from Go Fish in Vancouver. I'm pretty sure Britain has way better fish 'n' chips though.
I stopped along the seawall on a bench to eat my meal, so good!
A man with a little girl( his daughter) stopped and asked me about my suspension onewheel, seems like he knew a lot about onewheels.
He finally introduced himself as Ondy Ma, the founder of Surfwheel, he was quite interested in my board. I went on to tell him the original "wood" Surfwheel that was the first onewheel I ever vesc'd with a Trampa 6 .
Funny you never know who you meet.

I took a Pint controller, both boxes and a stock battery but no bms in part trade at $50 value. However, the controller suffered damage from a vnr that shorted out.
Testing the controller revealed a massive short that blew the fuse on my test harness.
Probing with a ohmeter showed a short between a phase connector and ground, so further testing came up with shorted mosfets controlling that phase connector.
I didn't have new mosfets, but I had harvested a few used ones, it was straight forward hot air replacement. I ordered new mosfets now TPH2R608NH
The controller works well now and been patched with Rewheel.

@lia I was cringing when they were poking their fingers in the bms area.
I don't think they know that "voltage'' symbol and orange cable means high voltage that can kill, all Jeff said was "cool orange cable".
Orange cables in hybrid and ev cars means " don't touch, don't probe, don't disconnect".
I worked as a government certified auto mechanic for road service CAA -Canadian Auto Association and we had auto makers put on seminars on their ev's all saying don't f with orange cables.
I know there's a argument about AC high voltage is more dangerous than DC high voltage eg. Edison vs Tesla, however I would be really careful with high voltage of any sort.

Since there's a renewed interest in the Rewheeded OG Pint , it's time to expand the Pint range beyond the JW/Chi battery.
I had Lia's battery box printed up last year, but there was no real advantage past the Jw battery as I hated riding the Og Pint with it's wicked pushback, but with Rewheel, it's my favorite board.
I followed the writeup in Reddit, I had to open up two low mileage Pint batteries to salvage 30 cells. I have to buy a bit of large blue shrink wrap to make it look nice.
https://www.reddit.com/r/onewheel/comments/z75ivc/built_a_pintx_battery_for_the_pint/
But seriously, does the PX rear bumper make my butt look big?

A fellow local group member asked me to resolder the footpad sensor connector in the controller, he brought in the controller only, already taken apart, I replaced the footpad connector as it was too badly damaged and reflowed the hall connector.

A week later he had a code 16 and again asked me to repair his board, this time he brought in the complete board. The poblem was broken wire in the harness.
After reassembling the board, now a code 3 (over voltage) code came up, I had to open up the contrller and he had used thick silicone insted of flowable silicone.

It took an hour just to open the controller up and clean up the mess. It looked like he had damaged the 80v cap and the inductor during his assembly, but replacement of those parts did not cure the code 3. I now had to go into the battery box, no thick silicone on this, I used my test bms and the code 3 was gone, so the problem in in his bms, after consulting a bms repair expert, he advised to check the small capacitors to the left of the Max chip as they get knocked loose, however they looked fine, but the caps were coated with a real thick coat of conformal.
I used a toothpick and poked around the caps to remove the conformal and two caps came off with the conformal. I resoldered those back on and the code 3 was gone.
I rode the board for a few days and all seemed to be fine, but that is not to be, yesterday, I tried to test ride it again and a code 16 came up. I opened up the controller box again and test contiuity on the bms data wires and all was fine.
Then I used my test harness and the code 16 was still there.
I then used my test bms and the code 16 was gone, so the problem is in the original bms. I checked the bms write up and looks like the Vp1786 transceiver chip may be the problem, I had a few of those chips so no harm replaceing it, after scaping away the thick conformal, the chip pretty well fell off, two legs came unsoldered, replacement was straight forward but had be be careful not to lift the solder pads. No more cde 16 after that chip replacement.

I went for a long ride and turned the board on and off many times with no trouble codes.
Those early 4206 bms's were rumored to be troublesome, also if you need to replace the controller lid seals. I used thin double sided tape, but run your fingers over the part of the tape that you dont want to stick to the plasic case.

@ed_co Did the conversion today, I have to make another shim as the present one is a little too thin, leaving too little axle endplay. It runs ,but can't upload a video.

I machined this 6061 aluminum Pint end cover while waiting for the Pint 357 skeletons to arrive. I really have to buy some Ti fasteners.
No cnc involved, just mind numbing measuring and hand machining.

@ed_co No, I don't have cad capabilities, sorry. I'm the last of the old school that draw plans on a napkin and figures out the procedures and machining in my head.
My lathe and milling machine are all manual with DROs.
I finished the offset axle project today.
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These new 357 rails are way too nice for a everyday rider.

@glyph I've got the shims made, I'll get them in the mail shortly.

@blankman Dowgrading with stlink requires that you have extracted your bootloader and settings for the correct serial number, mileage.
If you use someone else's bootloader and settings then you need a special program to change the serial number, mileage.
After stlink, then you can Rewheel with encrpted file 5040, if you don't have the 5040 file then no point going any further.
What was your goal try to get into factory mode?

I just received the Ennoid MK8 with the BT module.
I rewired a stock XR/Plus power switch as the MK8 needs a momentary NC switch, the stock XR switch is wired NO, but has a NC terminal on the switch, the led lights up fine on 5v, normal XR/Plus led is fed by 12v.
This switch makes using the stock XR controller box a lot easier.
The 6.05 firmware is already loaded in out of the box.
I will be running 24s1p Molicel 45b for now and a Stokedstock bms

@loaffette They're bright but doesn't thow a beam very far, I still use a helmet mounted bicycle headlight when I ride at night.

@loaffette I use to carry a solar charger, a 36v hoverboard battery, charging adapters, in a camera bag for group rides.
The solar charger converts the 36v to any higher voltage up to 90 v all programable with memory for different boards.
I've gone to 24s, so I can't use this anymore.

@loaffette The front light bar is just a constant headlight, not rgb, the rear is rgb and uses a Adruino Nano for different light patterns.
The front led strips canme from a dollar store much like the ones on Amazon, each pair of light strips run on 3v and are quite bright.
So you get 2 headlight strips and four cheap AAA cells from one wall switch light.
https://www.amazon.com/LiteSaver-Portable-Stick-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B09T4RG124/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2O9C3ARXJX6S0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0ddzhfnfZGV9iMggbIEFLuIE0WvqEDCLG0jyVn0DAaFRVqSWIWTzHsNORJn2vKp618weWkdHrBZqpYPeXpqSVl1Zz-_5GSaaebGi-66amv0fzgXEgAYmAFAIJsUgkL7yOYOc8PCwVHvzyBaDB8S-j3Us8fbnRKkrMdQ9u-vctJnK1_tBPg1XiXsSWiLJ9R1Kb1r0jJo4NLuO6YWklzAeICxnCurINtfeIY_Ia9f7PmFf7QvvgOMIM7u32lQX0OiG73bZFtfG6x7uqQjl0-SQiBBbA-W4yrfmcZewFj3FsqNweQfUq7b456l2mZ_khDoGeGvkT21F6a2OyN2PHGDXyTNuoONWOWrDD_vBvcyFAfMYMjAjOg9TcvsXtZFcTr4QRr9R8zxuC6kTLJ_Px-yjMjatIcRASLKEPc_1pCkcrNZg1XNh_QsF2BmkTyaWNRJt.8H-VGsEVdxY5yojyiWWV1vTkVk0EBlG22CtCigjY4hE&dib_tag=se&keywords=Kasonic%2B200%2BLumen%2BCOB%2BCordless%2BCloset%2BLights%2C&qid=1739291708&sprefix=kasonic%2B200%2Blumen%2Bcob%2Bcordless%2Bcloset%2Blights%2C%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-4&th=1

@kusosan I used the stock motor but I cut off the 9 pin Molex and used bullet connectors.
The stock XR controller box was used with a adapter for a 20mm gland, also a custom wiring harness was made. The picture shows block off plates, but on a Ubox build.
The Thor is mounted on a aluminum plate and bolted to the controller top lid.

Got the model 3 suspension vesc build parts back from the painter and mocked up with a new Ohlins shock, Pint hub with a Burris 11x5.5x6 tire.
I have 24 new p45b cells and a SS bms, just trying to decide on Thor 400 or MK8.

@lia Amazing work!

@lia You can also do software "posi" with FFM if your GT has not been updated.
Just need the Gt encrypted ota file.

I went backwards with my Gt/Ubox 100 build..
I switched out the SF motor back to the Hypercore motor although the GT motor now has a 6 inch rotor, 14 bolt end cover with an actual oil seal. Special axle blocks were made to center the wheel.
This is not my main ride and the extra 5 lbs of the SF is not worth the torque gain. I'll save the SF motor for another build.
The Ubox 100 has been updated to 6.05 "no limits" firmware and refloat.
The external yellow XT90 connector is a quick disconnect so the battery is not connected in storage to avoid parasitic draw.