I went for a nice ride on the south seawall to buy the best fish 'n' chips from Go Fish in Vancouver. I'm pretty sure Britain has way better fish 'n' chips though.
I stopped along the seawall on a bench to eat my meal, so good!
A man with a little girl( his daughter) stopped and asked me about my suspension onewheel, seems like he knew a lot about onewheels.
He finally introduced himself as Ondy Ma, the founder of Surfwheel, he was quite interested in my board. I went on to tell him the original "wood" Surfwheel that was the first onewheel I ever vesc'd with a Trampa 6 .
Funny you never know who you meet.

I took a Pint controller, both boxes and a stock battery but no bms in part trade at $50 value. However, the controller suffered damage from a vnr that shorted out.
Testing the controller revealed a massive short that blew the fuse on my test harness.
Probing with a ohmeter showed a short between a phase connector and ground, so further testing came up with shorted mosfets controlling that phase connector.
I didn't have new mosfets, but I had harvested a few used ones, it was straight forward hot air replacement. I ordered new mosfets now TPH2R608NH
The controller works well now and been patched with Rewheel.

@lia I was cringing when they were poking their fingers in the bms area.
I don't think they know that "voltage'' symbol and orange cable means high voltage that can kill, all Jeff said was "cool orange cable".
Orange cables in hybrid and ev cars means " don't touch, don't probe, don't disconnect".
I worked as a government certified auto mechanic for road service CAA -Canadian Auto Association and we had auto makers put on seminars on their ev's all saying don't f with orange cables.
I know there's a argument about AC high voltage is more dangerous than DC high voltage eg. Edison vs Tesla, however I would be really careful with high voltage of any sort.

Since there's a renewed interest in the Rewheeded OG Pint , it's time to expand the Pint range beyond the JW/Chi battery.
I had Lia's battery box printed up last year, but there was no real advantage past the Jw battery as I hated riding the Og Pint with it's wicked pushback, but with Rewheel, it's my favorite board.
I followed the writeup in Reddit, I had to open up two low mileage Pint batteries to salvage 30 cells. I have to buy a bit of large blue shrink wrap to make it look nice.
https://www.reddit.com/r/onewheel/comments/z75ivc/built_a_pintx_battery_for_the_pint/
But seriously, does the PX rear bumper make my butt look big?

A fellow local group member asked me to resolder the footpad sensor connector in the controller, he brought in the controller only, already taken apart, I replaced the footpad connector as it was too badly damaged and reflowed the hall connector.

A week later he had a code 16 and again asked me to repair his board, this time he brought in the complete board. The poblem was broken wire in the harness.
After reassembling the board, now a code 3 (over voltage) code came up, I had to open up the contrller and he had used thick silicone insted of flowable silicone.

It took an hour just to open the controller up and clean up the mess. It looked like he had damaged the 80v cap and the inductor during his assembly, but replacement of those parts did not cure the code 3. I now had to go into the battery box, no thick silicone on this, I used my test bms and the code 3 was gone, so the problem in in his bms, after consulting a bms repair expert, he advised to check the small capacitors to the left of the Max chip as they get knocked loose, however they looked fine, but the caps were coated with a real thick coat of conformal.
I used a toothpick and poked around the caps to remove the conformal and two caps came off with the conformal. I resoldered those back on and the code 3 was gone.
I rode the board for a few days and all seemed to be fine, but that is not to be, yesterday, I tried to test ride it again and a code 16 came up. I opened up the controller box again and test contiuity on the bms data wires and all was fine.
Then I used my test harness and the code 16 was still there.
I then used my test bms and the code 16 was gone, so the problem is in the original bms. I checked the bms write up and looks like the Vp1786 transceiver chip may be the problem, I had a few of those chips so no harm replaceing it, after scaping away the thick conformal, the chip pretty well fell off, two legs came unsoldered, replacement was straight forward but had be be careful not to lift the solder pads. No more cde 16 after that chip replacement.

I went for a long ride and turned the board on and off many times with no trouble codes.
Those early 4206 bms's were rumored to be troublesome, also if you need to replace the controller lid seals. I used thin double sided tape, but run your fingers over the part of the tape that you dont want to stick to the plasic case.

@ed_co Did the conversion today, I have to make another shim as the present one is a little too thin, leaving too little axle endplay. It runs ,but can't upload a video.

I machined this 6061 aluminum Pint end cover while waiting for the Pint 357 skeletons to arrive. I really have to buy some Ti fasteners.
No cnc involved, just mind numbing measuring and hand machining.

@ed_co No, I don't have cad capabilities, sorry. I'm the last of the old school that draw plans on a napkin and figures out the procedures and machining in my head.
My lathe and milling machine are all manual with DROs.
I finished the offset axle project today.
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These new 357 rails are way too nice for a everyday rider.

@glyph I've got the shims made, I'll get them in the mail shortly.

@lia You can also do software "posi" with FFM if your GT has not been updated.
Just need the Gt encrypted ota file.

I went backwards with my Gt/Ubox 100 build..
I switched out the SF motor back to the Hypercore motor although the GT motor now has a 6 inch rotor, 14 bolt end cover with an actual oil seal. Special axle blocks were made to center the wheel.
This is not my main ride and the extra 5 lbs of the SF is not worth the torque gain. I'll save the SF motor for another build.
The Ubox 100 has been updated to 6.05 "no limits" firmware and refloat.
The external yellow XT90 connector is a quick disconnect so the battery is not connected in storage to avoid parasitic draw.

@lemur I've since updated the Ubox lite firmware to 6.05 "no limits" which allowed the Ubox Lite to have an higher maximum input voltage from the hard coded 95v to a higher value, in my case with 22s at 103v.
Hopefully that will avoid the regen voltage spikes that will ND with the 95v input.
The best feature with 6.05 firmware is the hill holding setting that matches a OW board, the vesc board is no longer rolling away on a slight incline.

I survived the test ride on my fresh vesc build.
New Ubox Lite, 22s1p 42 A cells , Maxkgo 30s bms and out of percaution I only charged to 90 volts instead of 92.4 volts and kept my speed to 16 mph for now.
I had a warning on Float control about maxium motor voltage being too low but I couldn't change it as I believe that 95 v max is hard coded in the firmware, I not sure if a "no limits" is available for the Ubox Lite.
I had a strange buzzing and harmonics on rocking back and forth on Refloat but smooth on Float, I have to check into that.
This build was against all advice, but if you don't try, you will never know.

@weno66 Picture posted in one of your requests.

@weno66 Here you go.

@weno66 I had a diagram somewhere, I'll try to find it.

@lia Thank you!

Re: Building a updated suspension board
I fabricated a few more pieces for my third suspension build, the controller box I may use is a printed one with a Ubox 100 in it , but things change as the build comes along and the rails are longer than stock to fit a larger tire than the Pint size. The swing arm pivot is stainless steel and self lubricatig delrin bushings.
I'm presently looking for an high end bicycle shock, even better than the Mazocchi air bomber, as I believe a top tier shock is the secret for any suspension, be it a car, motorcycle, bicycle or even a one wheeled balance vehicle.
Pictures of my 2 completed and partial suspension builds. Top one is XR controller based, middle is Thor with 20s2p battery.

@weno66 When you say m2t mosfets, did you mean m8t mosfets?
When you get high and low cell voltages on adjacent cell groups usually it's a m8t mosfet.
There are 8 mosfets controlling 15 cell groups, but #1 m8t mosfet controls only one cell group.
Best bet is to get the bms repaired at Atlowshop or source a good working bms.