Vesc Conversion Status (Rose/Mika)
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@s-leon I'm already working on that. Got a new full-face helmet, knee pads and wrist guards. Going to save up a little more and then buy something for the chest.
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Alright, update time:
This time, properly.So, for the past year I've been dealing with a problem on my board. The threads on my rails keep going out. I've had press-fit inserts put in, but they keep falling out. I've JB-welded in some 10-32 nuts, but those don't hold. There isn't much metal left in the rails where the threads are to even do heilicoil.
So, what's man got to do to get his threads back?
You make your own threads somewhere elseThe way I see how the onewheel is assembled is that everything attaches to everything. The bumpers attach to the rails, controller and the footpads all at the same time on the XR. The kush wide attaches similarly, and controller boxes are just bolted in with screws threading into the box itself.
So why not just cut the rails out of the picture if they are just a problem? The only screws holding my bumper on are attached to the footpad and controller anyways. So, why not just have the footpad and bumper attach directly to the controller itself?
I took Fungineers Easy Access box and made the holes underneath the footpad screws small enough for heated inserts to fit snugly into. I extended out a small block for each bumper, and added a hole for a heated insert. I'm going to print this out on my new Bambu A1 (I got so fed up with my CR-10 Smart that it now permanently lives inside of its box in the garage). I'll print it using PETG, but I'm going to compensate by making the walls on this thing thick. I'm shooting for at least 5-6 walls thick, and I'm going to crank up the infill to 40 percent.
I'm also printing off a new footpad for the future. My old one has the sensor peeling up on one of the back corners, and it's ghosting on the left side of the board. Going to print off VOW's Mushies in PETG, but I'm going to make it pretty dense and add a couple mods of my own I'll show later.
Apart from that, I'm going to clean up the wiring in the board and make it a little prettier, add an Avaspark RGB Mini.
113 volts?! I could lick that!
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picture of the box
I had to shrink the m3 heated insert holes around the top because they were way too large for the inserts I had on hand. Made little legs that stuck out, and made the screw holds small enough for heated inserts
I have a devious plan with his
Expanded the holes for 19mm buttons, same for the plugalso, I found out today why my threads on my board got stripped.
apparently thunder rails are tapped for M5, not 10-32
XR uses 10-32 screws
Thunder rails are tapped for M5my reaction to this information:
113 volts?! I could lick that!
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@loaffette Ouch :(
I think all the Fungineers stuff is metric. Mostly because we're all from predominantly metric based countries 😅 -
Ubox 100v stopped working after I shorted the 12v Power port on the controller itself. (the unmarked 2-pin PH 2.0 plug beside the SWD one on the side)
{
Emailed spintend to see if there's any fixing it, but this seriously puts a pause on my plans
I did get everything wired up for the LEDs, but it still sucks that the controller is busted.113 volts?! I could lick that!
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@loaffette Hope they get back with a fix. Probably something replaceable has blown if you know someone with a reflow iron and steady hands.
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@lia they just told me it's dead and needs to be sent back
I'll probably poke around inside and see if anything looks broken or busted113 volts?! I could lick that!
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@loaffette Assuming the fuses did their job you should be fine.
https://spintend.com/products/single-ubox-100v-100a-motor-controller-based-on-vescCheck continuity between the highlighted components. If one shows Open Loop then that needs replacing with another fuse.
Good luck!
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@lia I'll check
if that's the problem and the board powers on afterwards, then I'm goldenI did notice earlier that when i have the power button plugged in, there is that little pop, but still no power
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all of them seem fine, but BF on mine is a tad bit flakey
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Update
No bueno on that old controller, it's deader than a doorknob. I held on to it for measurment references and to recycle the XT-60 on it since I was out of those. Spent the rest of my time experimenting with COB LED strips
They seemed bright and worked well. The idea is to utilize the 12V (1A assumed) power output from the Ubox 100v. Split it so two of the wires carrying the voltage goes through a boost converter to bump 12 to 24v for the LEDs. At the same time, run the other two wires to a buck converter to drop it to 5V for the Wemos D1 which will use WLED. That will let me control the LED's colors and brightness.
It worked on the bench, so I buttoned the rest of the board up enough so it could be taken back to college
Re-terminated the wires on the motor just so it was cleaner, and covered it in heat shrink. I might end up peeling that heat shrink off and re-doing the wiring again because it was a pain to fit through the cable gland, and I think I could make it look cleaner.
So, remember how I've been having trouble with the screw threads on my rails?
I took the Easy Access box STEP and pulled it into CAD. I added these little legs that extend out enough to cover the back screw holes for the bumpers. There's a hole for 10-32 heated inserts to go in, where it should give me new threads. I had to sand it down a bit, but I got it to fit and it works well!
After I moved in and my new controller arrived, I got right to work placing in the new controller. I had some fun with my iPad automatically updating to Vesc Tool 6.05 which made connecting to the board impossible via iPad (
stupid thing) so I did it on my Galaxy Fold, which hadn't updated the app.
After too much work, I got it all put together! However, the LED bar on thr front started to flicker like crazy. I checked the wiring, checked for any shorts via continuity across the wires and even swapped out the Wemos D1. I even ran the LEDs with only the power and ground connected, and it still flickered and changed colors.
I was going to replace the LED strip but I can't find the rest of mine, and I don't feel like ordering new ones
The board works now, and is working great! I'm hoping to waterproof it soon before it rains. I printed the controller box out of PETG with a 5 layer thick wall, so hopefully that should keep it sealed.
113 volts?! I could lick that!
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The board compared against my mom's pint. I'm hoping to soon replace the tire after 500 miles and to get her an enduro. She can ride the board and balance on it, but she goes very slow and her feet and ankles are shaking on the round tire of the pint.
That's a later project though
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@loaffette said in Vesc Conversion Status (Rose/Mika):
No bueno on that old controller, it's deader than a doorknob
Nooooooooo 😠Anyone nearby who's handy with a reflow station that could take a look?
still flickered and changed colors
Are there filter caps on the LED strips. It's possible there's enough noise from the run length to cause it. -
@lia Nope, not yet on the reflow station
Everyone I knew who had one left for greener pastures (They're all smarter and crazier than me and got scholarships to better colleges)The LEDs flickering might have been a good thing too. It made me realize that those strips weren't bright enough for what I wanted (even though they were 24V)
Though I may end up putting my old stock XR headlights back in for now -
New update:
The motor has started to vibrate whenever I apply breaking. It's like haptic buzz vibrating. Updated firmware, recalibrated the motor and went through motor crunch troubleshooting.What fixed it was unplugging the Hall sensor plug in my veac and plugging it back it.
A little confused now
