XR VESC conversion went wrong
So, I tried a vesc conversion, and it went tits up
BMS shorted and I'm too terrified to even touch the board. I'm looking for someone in my local area to finish thr VESC conversion (DFW) since I'm too scared. I'm probably going to be boardless for a while.
Heads up to those looking to VESC, don't go cheap. Don't reuse FM parts as they are too hard to work on with the conformal coating, and doing thr charge only mod is very difficult to do without the right experience or skills
I'll be sending the badgersense back to whoever offered it to me, its been a crazy month for me and I'm struggling to remember names
@loaffette Sorry to hear the BMS went bang. Not strictly your fault. FM wired the XT60 in reverse polarity at the BMS so that's probably where it went wrong.
Nobody knows for sure why they did this but having picked apart their PCB work I can safely say it's probably so they could run one of the power traces straight across between the 2 XT60s and avoid having to get creative with the layout. Still not a good reason because stuff like this happens.
It could be salvageable if you find what bit went pop and pray it didn't send the damage downstream but it might be worth finding someone that'll buy a busted BMS to avoid the risk of using a repaired BMS.
The badgersense came from @S-Leon btw.
@lia I'll ship the badgeraenae back to him
might give it another go, the board did turn on when I plugged it in, I think one of my wires i had soldered came loose and contacted another
I hate soldering wires, its just too damn painful and intuitive.
managed to take a nap
for all intents and purposes, I probably should give it another go. Problem is, everyone that does the charge only mod on the BMS splices their wires together, which I have no idea as to how they pull that off
Problem is, everyone that does the charge only mod on the BMS splices their wires together, which I have no idea as to how they pull that off
Which part of it do you have a problem with? Is it the removal of a bit of insulation or soldering to the wires?
If you're not too fussed about water resistance you can use what are known as "posi taps". Should be able to get them on Amazon or probably even some automotive stores.
I got the yellow ones ages ago for the same thing as those should fit however I remembered I liked going through puddles so soldered mine instead then encased the joint in silicone.
TheBoardGarage last edited by
What parts and configuration have you been trying to build?
If you're out of options, and want help that's not local, you can send your parts to me and I can hash it all out, or, just make the wiring you need to make it work.
It reads like you're using the stock 15s battery?
I'm East Coast, on Long Island, NY, so I'm not local to the DFW area, but, as a last resort, feel free to reach out.
@theboardgarage three thing:
A: Holy crap, I did not know you were on the forums! Welcome!
B: The BMS still works. I'm having trouble with soldering. I'm not used to seeing wires this huge and its giving me trouble. I'm gonna try and see if I can make my own Y splitter thing later today. If not, then ill look into sending it over to you. This leads me to..
C: I'm willing to send it over to you, but I'm worried about cost and shipping time. I could probably drop 400 dollars on someone else to do the rest for me, not including shipping. I know it's low, but I'm trying to save money for my next year in college thats coming up.
Not smart to do when your doing a project that could kill a 1200 dollar board
@Lia I'm going to be water-proofing this later when I get LEDs working, and I'm sure that the board can survive trails and large drops. I'm probably going to cover every solder connection in an ungodly amount of silicone, as if I'm ever going inside to do a board repair, it may involve getting a ZBMS or something better, who knows
TheBoardGarage last edited by TheBoardGarage
A: Holy crap, I did not know you were on the forums! Welcome!
Thank you, much appreciated.
B: The BMS still works. I'm having trouble with soldering. I'm not used to seeing wires this huge and its giving me trouble. I'm gonna try and see if I can make my own Y splitter thing later today. If not, then ill look into sending it over to you.
Yeah, larger gauge wires are tricky on their own. More so if you're working with a stock Onewheel wiring harness, as that wiring is probably some of the worst I've come across. The strands are thick and rigid, the insulation is cheap plastic that shrinks and melt at the lowest tool heats, it's just not a good experience.
I'm not sure what iron you're using, but I've found the best results come from cartidge based irons or stations, like the Pinecil, TS80/100, the T12 cartridge stations, etc. That kind of iron with a large tip, like the D4 or C4 style, can do well with 12, 10, even 8 gauge wire. The heat flow and consistent delivery of the heat makes the joint more easy to achieve, since you're not just raising temperatures and burning off flux to try to get the heat delivered into the entire joint properly.
Most of the nitty gritty DIY stuff tends to just form a larger and larger money pit to get projects done. Even with the garage as it is, I'm always finding a need for more tools.
Anyway, let me know how it works out. Cheers.
The onewheel works again
Turns out, after the thing saw jesus two more times (sparks from wires shorting together) the BMS still works. I found out the charge-only mod is not required to use it with the Ubox
Not happy with that discovery since it means that I was actually done with the hard part of this mod almost a week ago, but you live and you learn.
The Ubox turns on, the BMS charges and balances the battery. The entire board runs off of it's own power. Put a black and red momentary switch on there. The Ubox won't turn off since it requires a switching switch thing, the opposite of a momentary. However, the BMS turns off automatically when left inactive. Means that when that happens, I need to plug in the board to bring the BMS back to life, but it works!
I need to work out a small problem with the bluetooth being a little
bitchannoying, as it sometimes refueses to connect to either my laptop or phone, and I need to fix my wiring on the footpad plug
But, alas, it turns on! I've left it at home since I went on a family vacation. Tomorrow, I'll do a write-up on things I learned, and what to do and what not to do once the board is fitted with the float package and I have a few profiles in it
I'll also be adding some LEDs and will look into ways of water-proofing it. (Apart from the urge to coat everything in conformal coating or gluing down the lid with a glue of some kind that's easy to remove, idk)
Found out my footpad's bust when trying to tune the footpad. Pin 2 doesn't work, so that's fun
Having an issue of the board taking off and it's speed being negative, and the board sometimes refusing to connect. It shows up on my list of bluetooth devices in windows and on android, but never connects
THE BOARD WORKS
there's some random issue with the board randomly nose-diving, though I have no reason why. My solder joins are pretty spot on and is pretty good