What parts and configuration have you been trying to build?
If you're out of options, and want help that's not local, you can send your parts to me and I can hash it all out, or, just make the wiring you need to make it work.
It reads like you're using the stock 15s battery?
I'm East Coast, on Long Island, NY, so I'm not local to the DFW area, but, as a last resort, feel free to reach out.
@loaffette said in XR VESC conversion went wrong:
A: Holy crap, I did not know you were on the forums! Welcome!
Thank you, much appreciated.
@loaffette said in XR VESC conversion went wrong:
B: The BMS still works. I'm having trouble with soldering. I'm not used to seeing wires this huge and its giving me trouble. I'm gonna try and see if I can make my own Y splitter thing later today. If not, then ill look into sending it over to you.
Yeah, larger gauge wires are tricky on their own. More so if you're working with a stock Onewheel wiring harness, as that wiring is probably some of the worst I've come across. The strands are thick and rigid, the insulation is cheap plastic that shrinks and melt at the lowest tool heats, it's just not a good experience.
I'm not sure what iron you're using, but I've found the best results come from cartidge based irons or stations, like the Pinecil, TS80/100, the T12 cartridge stations, etc. That kind of iron with a large tip, like the D4 or C4 style, can do well with 12, 10, even 8 gauge wire. The heat flow and consistent delivery of the heat makes the joint more easy to achieve, since you're not just raising temperatures and burning off flux to try to get the heat delivered into the entire joint properly.
Most of the nitty gritty DIY stuff tends to just form a larger and larger money pit to get projects done. Even with the garage as it is, I'm always finding a need for more tools.
Anyway, let me know how it works out. Cheers.
Looks excellent. I look forward to these.
@rahan12 It's certainly been done before. A couple of the guys I used to ride with did this, carry 2 regular XR chargers and connect them in parallel with a splitter.
Theroetically there's no reason it shouldn't work.
@lia
I must buy these. They look fantastic.
In your testing, what are you using to drive and/or control these?
Cheers!
0.6 amps isn't THAT much higher, and it's hard to say if it's actually 6 amps or if there's a collection of component and measurement variability that doesn't provide the most accurate reading.
Stock XR chargers aren't openable, so you can't tune the current inside them. And adding a current regulator into this concoction seems like it's starting to push it into a realm where it'd be more prudent sourcing a variable current charger.
Hard to say, I'm not sure.
0.6 amps isn't THAT much higher, and it's hard to say if it's actually 6 amps or if there's a collection of component and measurement variability that doesn't provide the most accurate reading.
Stock XR chargers aren't openable, so you can't tune the current inside them. And adding a current regulator into this concoction seems like it's starting to push it into a realm where it'd be more prudent sourcing a variable current charger.
Hard to say, I'm not sure.
@rahan12 It's certainly been done before. A couple of the guys I used to ride with did this, carry 2 regular XR chargers and connect them in parallel with a splitter.
Theroetically there's no reason it shouldn't work.
@loaffette said in XR VESC conversion went wrong:
A: Holy crap, I did not know you were on the forums! Welcome!
Thank you, much appreciated.
@loaffette said in XR VESC conversion went wrong:
B: The BMS still works. I'm having trouble with soldering. I'm not used to seeing wires this huge and its giving me trouble. I'm gonna try and see if I can make my own Y splitter thing later today. If not, then ill look into sending it over to you.
Yeah, larger gauge wires are tricky on their own. More so if you're working with a stock Onewheel wiring harness, as that wiring is probably some of the worst I've come across. The strands are thick and rigid, the insulation is cheap plastic that shrinks and melt at the lowest tool heats, it's just not a good experience.
I'm not sure what iron you're using, but I've found the best results come from cartidge based irons or stations, like the Pinecil, TS80/100, the T12 cartridge stations, etc. That kind of iron with a large tip, like the D4 or C4 style, can do well with 12, 10, even 8 gauge wire. The heat flow and consistent delivery of the heat makes the joint more easy to achieve, since you're not just raising temperatures and burning off flux to try to get the heat delivered into the entire joint properly.
Most of the nitty gritty DIY stuff tends to just form a larger and larger money pit to get projects done. Even with the garage as it is, I'm always finding a need for more tools.
Anyway, let me know how it works out. Cheers.
What parts and configuration have you been trying to build?
If you're out of options, and want help that's not local, you can send your parts to me and I can hash it all out, or, just make the wiring you need to make it work.
It reads like you're using the stock 15s battery?
I'm East Coast, on Long Island, NY, so I'm not local to the DFW area, but, as a last resort, feel free to reach out.
Looks excellent. I look forward to these.
@lia
I must buy these. They look fantastic.
In your testing, what are you using to drive and/or control these?
Cheers!