GTR vs GT6. 0
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Tired of seeing how much is abusing the DIY scene charging absurd amounts of money, someone said something...
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* Gets out my calipers and board *
...Oh... wait!
Left bearing sits about 7mm closer to the rail than the right side. How have I never noticed this!All that being said the alteration is like 1.5mm, closing the difference to 5.5mm. It's more centred but not actually centred... or am I being a mug.
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@lia what is the thickness of the conversion shim, 1.5mm?
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@ed_co Went off @Lemur's shim diagram that's 1.5mm.
My XR has a distance between the inner bearing race and rail of 40mm on the left and 47mm on the right.
Going back over the documentation we have on it my head is spinning since Lemur got an offset of 3.5mm to the left after adding the shim on the cap and I trust his ability to measure more than mine.
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@lia shit, I think I need a picture to understand the measurements, etc. My English is shit and my understanding on the issue is changing everytime. Allegedly (what I understood) the milling is the best solution:
- you can use the GT motor straight away and centered with no other modification needed
- you can go back to the XR motor adding a shim
Maybe I understood it wrong...
Is far away better than buying a CNC hub and cover for $900, that's for sure -
@lia You're correct, milling is still not fully centered, half of 3.5mm.
Honestly, I've ridden with the shim with no correction axle block and with the centering axle block, absolutely no difference in ride quality, all placebo.
The shim method is the cheapest route for people that want to retain the original XR/Plus rotor.
Tomorrow I will be installing my custom end cover for the GTR conversion with the centering axle block since my Enduro tire came today.
Also measure rail to edge of wheel rim to get proper dimensions -
Wow! This blew my mind, I never noticed this, either!
I appreciate the points in the post, and I think it is uncool to be outwardly negative to people who choose one method over the others. I think the idea of using a shim to "undo" the milling is one that maybe people hadn't thought of.
However, I strongly prefer using the conversion motor plate for the sole reason that I know I can put everything back to stock. If I wanted to send my board back to FM (either my GT or my Plus --which I acknowledge is very, very unlikely) then all it will look like to them is that I changed the bearings. I also like that the conversion motor plate might help dissipate heat.
Speaking about that, does anyone have any idea when the TechRails/StokeLife motor plates will start going out? I ordered mine from Bob's Stoke Shop on May 1st and was really hoping to have it around now. My Enduro tires arrived earlier this week, I have Grizzly bearings on standby, a new pair of TFL Life Savers, and a shim for my Plus. I even have someone lined up who wants the Trail-Pro that is on my Plus today. Just waiting on the one part.
I am actually happy to hear about this in a weird way, it means there is a very real possibility that FM didn't change the axle to make it more proprietary and hurt customers. But, instead, they may have actually done it to make the product better (i.e. centering the wheel on the axle).
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@biell Here's the final of my GTR conversion, the wheel is perfectly centered.
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@biell said in GTR vs GT6. 0:
there is a very real possibility that FM didn't change the axle to make it more proprietary and hurt customers
You just gave them an idea for a new GTX feature!
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Can anyone with a GT post a photo of the GT hub connector? Wondering if it is similar to the pint one. Thanks
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@ed_co I don't have a picture, but it's totally different from the Pint.
The Gt connector is larger with bigger phase connectors and proprietary. -
@lemur can you post a photo?
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Thanks @Lia!!! Well, is not the same, but the same number of connectors, so I guess are the same specs. It should be so great to find something similar outthere, for removing the horrible big MOLEX of the XR controller for vex conversions... I think I like more the pint one though...
Please if someone find something similar (3 high amperage lines and at least 6 low amperage for data) please let me know... -
@ed_co said in GTR vs GT6. 0:
Please if someone find something similar (3 high amperage lines and at least 6 low amperage for data) please let me know...
Well, I guess no one knows :(
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@ed_co I would look at eBike motor connectors since those draw huge wattage on the bigger 1000w+ units. HiGo seem to be the go to brand for the normal eBike stuff.
https://www.higoconnector.com/products/collection/motor/w999K#title
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@lia said in GTR vs GT6. 0:
@ed_co I would look at eBike motor connectors since those draw huge wattage on the bigger 1000w+ units. HiGo seem to be the go to brand for the normal eBike stuff.
https://www.higoconnector.com/products/collection/motor/w999K#title
@Lia These LOOKS AMAZING! But how much it costs, and where to buy them?
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@lia Wow pricey! It should be great to have not just a cable but a socket. Although at these prices, not sure if will escale well...
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@ed_co Best option for a lower price would be to just split out the cables into the 3 high current phases and the individual hall/temp wires to dedicated ports like the V1/Plus/XR.
It's a shame there isn't a 3+6 pin varient of AMASS's AS120 connector. It's a 2+4 pin arrangement. Power pins do 80-120a which would be hype if they had one with the extra pins.
https://www.3dxr.co.uk/electronics-c78/connectors-c107/amass-as120-pair-p3467
