XR Error 21 (repaired)
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@b0ardski Nothing yet, still sitting waiting for me to pick it up again. I'm going to remove the LED drivers to see if that fixes this one since the error occurs even when nothing is connected.
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@lia isn't there a chip added to the 4209 after 4208 to defeat charge n ride? was thinking that was a likely issue.
carving turns all year round
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@b0ardski They added some extra bits, this is what I've seen when comparing a 4206 to my 4208.
Here's a comparison I did on the former forum when doing the E16 issue.
Apparently removing R34 restores the function on later revisions. -
Don't you just hate it when you dink about and things just work? Not even any smoke?
Figured I'd give the LED drivers a bit of heat in case something wasn't connected up right. I don't know if that was it or I accidentally fixed it while probing it for hours but she lives!
Nothing proper to hook up so piggybacked off my charger and soldered some leads onto Batt+ and Batt-
Still gives E16 but that's kind of a given since it's only the brains.
Guess it now needs a body. Another project?
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@lia a few parts here a few there and ... maybe a growler to stretch the quiver.
that doesn't help me much though I don't have your magic touch with electronics and I'm all thumbs with a solder iron or voltmeter probe. maybee I can hook up test power with the spare harness plugged in instead of soldering on the leads?carving turns all year round
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@lia said in XR Error 21 (repaired):
@b0ardski They added some extra bits, this is what I've seen when comparing a 4206 to my 4208.
Here's a comparison I did on the former forum when doing the E16 issue.
Apparently removing R34 restores the function on later revisions.so just removing that resister would allow charge n ride on the 4209? I like that Idea.
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@b0ardski said in XR Error 21 (repaired):
maybee I can hook up test power with the spare harness plugged in instead of soldering on the leads?
That would be my first step if the board still errors with the headlights removed. Take out the controller with nothing attached, not even the charge port or power button just for good measure.
If you can then feed power into the harness with as little else connected as possible we can see if the issue remains. If it goes away we can start connecting parts again till it shows up thus telling us what is broke :)
However if it remains then we need to start digging a little more. If you can take a HD pic of your controller’s component side I can cast an eye over it for anything sus.
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@lia thanks for that i'll get pics posted later this evening, after I open it up and rig up the spare battery
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@lia will upload pics tonite, on the way to last day of the season party at the ski hill.
plugged in the spare battery to the control box , unplugging lights button and charge plug made no difference.. the mastic pads on the components felt damp but no sign of corrosion.carving turns all year round
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@b0ardski Sounds like a sneaky problem. Hope you enjoy the party :)
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@lia Is that component with the messy soldering some kind of fuse?
I repaired a Xr bms with a blown U1 chip(I249a1) chip, it works with my good Xr 4208 controller, but when I connected the repaired bms to the original controller, the controller would blink blue once and not turn on.
When I connected the charger to the original controller and the repaired bms, the same U1 chip blew again.
Luckily, I had a few new U1 chips around and the solder pads were still intact, with my fingers crossed, I connected the charger to my good 4208 controller and the repaired bms( second repair) and the charging went fine.
I'm just going through your excellent pictures to learn what about all the components on the controller. -
@lemur said in XR Error 21 (repaired):
Is that component with the messy soldering some kind of fuse?
This one just above the battery connector on the controller?
That appears to be a 10H10 schottky diode from what I can tell.
I can't find the I249a1 chip, do you have a link for it? Also what version is the original XR running?
Haven't diagnosed a BMS yet but I've got one next to me to look at. U1 being the tiny 8 pin IC below the XT60? -
@lia Sorry, I must've have mistyped the U1 chip on the bms, it's I240A1 chip. some kind of current sensor?
The original controller was a 4210-4150, but I had a Owie on it at first, but needed a reboot on the power button to work, so I switched to a Jw chip and that worked great. -
@lemur Oh I see now. Seems sort of common.
https://www.reddit.com/r/onewheelpint/comments/ia0zkr/fried_onewheel_pint_question/Oddly the Pint uses the longer one that has a different pinout (page 3)
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina240.pdf?ts=1652609679914
Looking at it the chip amplifies the difference between both sides of the current sense resistor so the main IC can see what the output current looks like.
That being said I'm at a loss as to why it's blowing when hooked up to the correct controller and working instead with an older gen one. If the opposite was true I'd assume some sort of reverse polarity somewhere.
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@lia These were Pint bms's before I flashed one to 4208, I see the short body chip and the long body I240a1 chips. The boards have different revision numbers.
I dis save the original firmware associa ted with the bms serial numbers.
I have a bms I trying to repair that gets hot by the large chip that shuts down the controller and destroys owie chip. Haha.
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@Lemur A fine collection of parts. Pretty useful for looking at what changes and what might be wrong on other kit.
@lemur said in XR Error 21 (repaired):
I have a bms I trying to repair that gets hot by the large chip that shuts down the controller and destroys owie chip
I wonder if maybe the voltage regulator for the BMS isn't working correctly and feeding to much voltage into the IC's power rail. I would expect no more than 5v.
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@lia I just ordered all the small chips , and if I throw enough parts at it....?
On another note, I did a test with a known good OW battery with all cells tested even with a voltmeter and two out of three bms's reported uneven cells, so sometimes it's not a battery problem but a bms problem, can't balance a balanced battery.
The charger kicks off early on the bms that report the worst unbalance, low of 3.96 and high of 4.10v . -
@lemur Aha when in doubt that's not a bad shot.
That sounds like the balancing is working, just a bank is out far enough it's going to have to do a few more balance cycles to get them in line.
I have in the past taken batteries and charged cell banks manually in 1S through the balance lead. Super jank but it beats waiting for these infuriatingly slow balance charging circuits to level a massive pack. -
@lia I did the bms test with a known good battery with and each cell was at 4.00 volts. Only one bms reported correct voltages with Owce, the other two bms reported a low and high cell, the worst being 3.96-4.10 volts.
That means not all bms's report the correct cell voltages according to the Owce app.
I repeated the experiment to verify the results. -
@lemur Oh it's different on that one. I thought you meant it was just balancing slow.
That is very weird. I wonder if there is a corroded link on that BMS or a failing resistor that's creating a larger voltage drop by the time it gets to the bit that reads the voltages.When I made my battery pack from spring loaded contacts the first time (and then gave up and welded them) the voltage drop was insane. Might be something similar be it contact resistance on the port or some biffed trace/ component.
