XR front LED’s identity
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@lia thank you for the reply... Much appreciated.
It certainly looks like a 5630. Now I know that refers to it's dimensions...
(Hope the link is added correctly)
This was a good article:
https://heracolights.com/2014/03/10/3528-vs-5050-vs-5630-led-smd-diodes/Based in California too 🤔
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@puzz360 5630 does refer to the package size. Im sure there are many different companies that produce them.
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@puzz360 Lots of versions ranging in forward current, lumens and colour temperature. 5630 as @cheppy44 mentioned just refers to the package size.
Probably safe to assume FM used just white and not a warm version. I checked the kickstarter to see if there were any clues but didn't see anything.
Could be worth reflowing it in the meantime. I've had some LEDs on other projects develop cracked solder joints and cause them to get real flickery.
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@lia good shout... Worth a try for sure 👍
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@Puzz360 These folks likely know the make of original LEDs used as they've gave it a closer study to create their own custom designed LED PCB.
https://oakcityshredsolutions.com/products/electrolytes-pro-for-onewheel
But 'cold joints' must be ruled out first as @Lia already addressed. -
@sirgu Nice one… appreciate the help :)
I have looked at these before, originally when I looked they were discounted.
Just a little pricey for my liking, even though it would be great to support a brilliant idea and product.
They may be open to telling me what the LED’s are I guess… maybe a bit cheeky though lolI will be stripping the board down for a tyre change soon, so likely I’ll take a closer look at the LED strip then to check for dry/bad joints…
May try and post a picture later so the problem can be visualised for anyone else with a similar issue.Thanks all again. Great support here :)
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@Puzz360 said :
... They may be open to telling me what the LED’s are I guess… maybe a bit cheeky though lol ...
True. Still worth asking!
Even though it is obvious from their side you are not eager on primarily buying their product .. on a positive note you'll be gladly share with the community where you got the help from. Which in turn expands awareness about them .. and eventually someone will buy their product instead of you. [-golden rule of marketing]
So .. aftermarket creators are not always stubborn to keep knowledge to themselves as FM is in any matters.
Hope you sort it out! -
@sirgu
Just an update for this thread.I did contact Oak City Shred Solutions, unfortunately I did not get any form of response.
Holding out has worked though because I got hold of a guy on the UK Onewheel Facebook group who had a spare front LED strip for sale at a good price and was local … yay.
Now just to find the time to fit the strip lol.
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@puzz360 That worked out nicely then :)
Not sure if I'm preaching to the choir but worth sharing the info juuuuuuust in case.
When doing the headlight swap it might be worth making sure that little ferrite ring is secure or outright replacing it with a custom shielded cable like from Bobs Stoke Shop. Save the headache of having to fix that later when it inevitably breaks free and destroys the cable or worse kill the controller like it did to Nate Fordged once. -
@lia thanks Lia,
All tips gratefully received and taken on board (no pun intended) ;) no matter how many times it’s mentioned, it may just help someone….
I will certainly double check the cable again, but when I took the thing apart to check initially a couple of years ago, I think I depleted worldwide hot glue stocks sticking down the ferrite core after checking the cable lol.
This time see the pictures I’ve just taken of the headlight
Red LED’s ok… white LED’s have the middle one dim when they light. The outer 2 are obscured by fangs but are lit correctly.
Under normal running they randomly flash on and off, more off than on…
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So, for anyone still interested. I went the hard way. Bought hot air gun for soldering (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000525251154.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.56.54461802pp4gyG) and replaced leds myself (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32382405158.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.54461802pp4gyG - white variant). Seems like a good fit, front and rear led strips white leds shines about the same intensity.
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@fixlik Great work finding those LEDs. How are they holding up?
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@lia Well, I had one ride since repair and have my XR listed for sale, so I'm afraid I will not be able to report that..
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@fixlik said in XR front LED’s identity:
So, for anyone still interested. I went the hard way.
Thanks for the info. Only just seen the update.
Well done for sorting out your LED’s @fixlik
I ended up buying a new strip. With this info I could repair my old strip.
Update to follow.
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OK... slight tangent, but still fairly relevant to headlight failure in general.
Was experiencing flickering and dim white light up front so I opted to open the controller for diagnosis.
Zero signs of water damage (board was badgered before I tore it open), solder joints look "fine", and the ferrite ring wasn't pulling the connector bodies off the PCB (but it was squashing the controller side connector). So no smoking gun. Boo...
So, before I start replacing things and adding solder willy-nilly, I'd like to test the PCBA in isolation. Does anyone know the pinout and power requirements for the XR headlight circuit off hand?
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@Ando
I have recently replaced both the led strip and the cable (shielded type). My LEDs are still flickering. :(
Maybe you have the same issue as me ? -
I'm bummed to hear that. I've got a local shop ready to diagnose/repair, but I'm starting to contemplate how much it's worth to me.
I opened the controller for two reasons, to look for a quick fix, and to ensure the ferrite ring wasn't about to fry my controller. My controller is now safe, so I may just close it back up without a headlight and call it a day, the trails are calling.
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@puzz360 I had similar. Turned out I had a cracked solder joint on the actual connector so you might have luck just redoing the joints :)
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@ando I am with you on that one… I’ve been running with lights off for a while now.
Next time I’m due for a tyre change I may well open up the controller again and check @Lia’s recommendation of a solder joint issue on the main pcb.
Will post a video of the issue here I think…
