Onewheel GT, something wrong after bearing change.
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Hey & thnks everybody for replying.
I try to attach video below.I have tried to do everything once more & make sure everythong is in rightplace and plugged in correctly, did i still do something wrong or did i damage something when i swaped bearings..this is so frustrating, i live in sweden & the amount of time and money it would cost med to send it to futuremotion is not an option :(
lMy board, this is how it sounds when trying to ride
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Hey & thnks everybody for replying.
I try to attach video below.I have tried to do everything once more & make sure everythong is in rightplace and plugged in correctly, did i still do something wrong or did i damage something when i swaped bearings..this is so frustrating, i live in sweden & the amount of time and money it would cost med to send it to futuremotion is not an option :(
lMy board, this is how it sounds when trying to ride
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@onesweedwheel Since you had to remove the stator to do a bearing change, perhaps the motor harness got damaged where it comes out of the axle or the hall sensor circuit board got damaged?
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That is what i did believe at first, i cant se any damage on it but one of the cables looks "bend". What do you beleive, it looks like all of them are connected, image below.
Thank
/J
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@onesweedwheel The circuit board looks good, I can't see any cuts on the harness where it bends, so that just leaves the connector pins. Are all the small pins intact?
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Sorry, what do you mean with "without load"?
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@onesweedwheel Holding it up in the air and pressing on the front footpad (Both zones.)
basically just get the wheel off of the ground and activate it.
113 volts?! I could lick that!
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Yup, that what I meant. Without rider's weight on top of the board.
Some ways to test it is on top of 'milk crate' or on top of your knees while you sit well - to sense unusual vibrations, clicks etc.
@onesweedwheel from the sounds of your video it seems like motor does some tremendous efforts to engage before loud beep comes up. If (by some raw chance) there exists any physical resistance that only appears under the load, you don't wanna repeat that mount/dismount test too often until you know the cause. -
I will try this later today. I will post test/result as soon as om at home later tonight.
Thanks / J
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will try this later today. I will post test/result as soon as om at home later tonight.
Thanks / J
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From what i can se, i guess i have to separate everything soon again so i will have a closer look and take better pecure! Thanks for helping :)
/ J
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@onesweedwheel said in This is how it sounds/looks without load..:
Re: [Onewheel GT](something wrong after bearing change.||
This is how it sounds/looks without load
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@onesweedwheel thats...
terrifying -
@onesweedwheel It only wanted to rotate once you go it going which makes me wonder if a phase is missing.
Do you have a multimeter that can measure resistance?
If so turn off the board and unplug the motor connector. On the motor side of the cable measure resistance between each of the 3 large contacts. They all should measure something and be similar. Measure A and B, B and C and C and A (the labels don't matter, but just measuring between each to check).
If that all checks out plug the motor back in and turn on the board. Slowly rotate the wheel by hand and look at the lights on the front. If it flickers to red even when you're rotating it forward that will suggest a failure with the hall sensors or wires for it.
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Hello & thank you!
I borrowed a multimeter today, i will try this later today when i come home from work. I actually have problems with the motor cable for a long time. Its tricky to make it connect, "locking ring" is not working and have not worked for a couple of months. That was never a problem for me in the beginning but it started do disconnect when riding, scary Yes :) i did solve that with something that looks almost like the thing in the picture below. anyway its hard to connect it without board blinking red "error out" when i turn it on. Maybe connectors on cable are now not working properly anymore?
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@onesweedwheel Oh an adjustable hose clamp. That's a cool way to try hold it in place.
It does sound like the connector might be causing trouble. You can buy a new retaining ring from FM though if yours is busted.
https://onewheel.com/products/gt-motor-connector-retainer-ring-kitPics below from their site :)
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Hi lia thanks for your support. "motor connector. On the motor side of the cable measure resistance between each of the 3 large contacts" what do you mean with the 3 large contacts? Im totally stranger to this stuff but i learn i guess ;)
is this the contacts you are talking about? -
@onesweedwheel Welcome <3
Sorry I was a little unclear.
On the connector that you plug into the controller there's 3 big contacts. Measuing between them should get a similar resistance value.
If those give you values measuring between each from one to the other then we can rule out the phases on the motor being out at least. Ideally your connector pins should be nice and shiny too like the pic above :) If any are blackened that might be why it's not working.
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@onesweedwheel said :
... I actually have problems with the motor cable for a long time. Its tricky to make it connect, "locking ring" is not working and have not worked for a couple of months. ...
@Lia said :
... You can buy a new retaining ring from FM though if yours is busted. ...
You know, Tech-Rails has 'a must' thingy for GT shredders.
https://tech-forum-products.myshopify.com/products/gt-motor-harness-plug-retainer
As Matthew itself has stated - this 3D-printed part is selling like crazy. Apparently there's reason for that.
