XR front LED’s identity
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@fixlik said in XR front LED’s identity:
So, for anyone still interested. I went the hard way.
Thanks for the info. Only just seen the update.
Well done for sorting out your LED’s @fixlik
I ended up buying a new strip. With this info I could repair my old strip.
Update to follow.
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OK... slight tangent, but still fairly relevant to headlight failure in general.
Was experiencing flickering and dim white light up front so I opted to open the controller for diagnosis.
Zero signs of water damage (board was badgered before I tore it open), solder joints look "fine", and the ferrite ring wasn't pulling the connector bodies off the PCB (but it was squashing the controller side connector). So no smoking gun. Boo...
So, before I start replacing things and adding solder willy-nilly, I'd like to test the PCBA in isolation. Does anyone know the pinout and power requirements for the XR headlight circuit off hand?
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@Ando
I have recently replaced both the led strip and the cable (shielded type). My LEDs are still flickering. :(
Maybe you have the same issue as me ? -
I'm bummed to hear that. I've got a local shop ready to diagnose/repair, but I'm starting to contemplate how much it's worth to me.
I opened the controller for two reasons, to look for a quick fix, and to ensure the ferrite ring wasn't about to fry my controller. My controller is now safe, so I may just close it back up without a headlight and call it a day, the trails are calling.
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@puzz360 I had similar. Turned out I had a cracked solder joint on the actual connector so you might have luck just redoing the joints :)
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@ando I am with you on that one… I’ve been running with lights off for a while now.
Next time I’m due for a tyre change I may well open up the controller again and check @Lia’s recommendation of a solder joint issue on the main pcb.
Will post a video of the issue here I think… -
@lia I hope it’s something relatively straightforward like that. Cheers.
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@puzz360 said in XR front LED’s identity:
I may well open up the controller again and check @Lia’s recommendation of a solder joint issue on the main pcb.
My break was led side but good to redo both
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@lia see attached link
If that works....
The LEDs go off when pressure is applied to the sensor (either one) they are very faintly on at times too.
Generally they don't come back on while it's stationary but they can do.... Quite random.Not easy to capture without riding....
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@puzz360 That’s much weirder than expected. Tapping the pads engages the full brightness. I wonder if the drivers are becoming overloaded somehow.
If you rotate the wheel a little to get it change direction does the fault remain?
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@lia Yeah, weird indeed. What you say makes sense in a way because yes, it does engage full brightness.
I hadn't really noticed they are like soft start... Both directions.
Just trying again I notice that the LEDs will work ok (just an occasional flicker) when the board is just left on.... I can hear a faint electrical hum when they are on. (Ear close to the controller)
If I engage the sensor they go full bright and then off.I switched them off with the app and they then carried on flickering very dimly even when I pressed the sensor. It almost looked like a cap gradually discharging until after say 30 seconds to a minute the LEDs went off ...
It must be the driver I suppose because it's a new LED strip and cable (screened/shielded)
Maybe getting overloaded on full brightness....?
Need to swap the rear driver for the front hahaha
If I rotate the wheel back and forth they just stay off once full brightness engaged.
If I don't engage the sensor I can roll back and forth and the LEDs keep working.
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@puzz360 If you do open it again take a pic of the driver area. Might be worth checking the physical state if the inductors near the connectors on the reverse side.
