Posts made by LOAFFETTE

She's alive.

Board runs great, and I've already given it hell. The new campus I transfered too is very hilly and has some pretty steep inclines, so I've been pushing my board up the hills to try and stress it out.

I got the Ubox 100v installed, though I had to design my own mount for it and rip it out of the metal housing it came in. Found out the NRF data port and ADC 2 is dead, so that's fun. I have a new MK8 coming in with 120V FETS. Apparently running 150V FETs with a 75.6V battery makes the controller run HOT. Plus, switching to 120V means I can get insane amperage (About 198.6A for Soft max, over 230 abs. max!)

Motor feels great, and I did the hall sensor replacement on my own. Ended up doing all three, took pictures and then made a pev.dev post about how to do it. It's poorly written, but hopefully it's enough.

One of the riders at 1Wheelparts hooked me up with their quickies. I modified the pubpad to fit specifically the quickie, and I'm going to modify the foot hooks from VOW to fit the quickies specifically.

My new footpad runs a V4 Stoked Stock sensor with the first 5mm printed out of thick PETG, then rest out of TPU

Looking into adding PWM control for my COB LED lightbar, but that will come later if I learn PCB design.

@lemur I talked with Ennoid a bit over email. He mentioned how if you use an external buck (which i use know) it can cause some weirdness with current rippling, and VOW needed to install a diode to prevent that.

I have seen people getting LEDs working on the MK8

I got the new hall sensors in and will be installing them, and will be finishing my conversion later today. Going to go pick up new grip tape later today for my new footpad. Considered pulling off my old grip tape but decided that I should stop with the jank and I should start doing this properly.

One more thing-

GX-16 can be used in place of the switchcraft connector, it fits if the screw part of the connector is oval-shaped.

And I somehow managed to gaslight my Ubox 100v into making it think pitch was roll, vice-versa. I assume that I've either done something I shouldn't have, or I've messed up on IMU calibration.

Once I get this whole thing figured out, I'll post a more detailed write-up on my board as it currently stands.

Alright, I think ya'll need an update for the board.

As of writing this, I have switched to a metal controller box based off of the Pubbox design, which is amazing (outside of the thirty lid screws), went to the ennoid MK8, then back to the old ubox 100v. Added LEDs, 3d printed footpad with the first five milimeters being near-solid PETG with the rest being TPU and the stoked stock v4 sensor, and then the thundercat with WTF BTG rails.

The board is currently in a weird state of un-death. I made some idiotic choices and browned out my MK8 enough times to do what I'd assume permanent damage to it, along with finding that somehow an SMD capacitor came off of the MK8 (wild). Spent the better part of a couple days then switching back to the ubox, only to find that the NRF data and ADC2 being dead. Greeaat

For the past month, I've been fighting the board to keep it running. It started with adding LEDs running directly off of the MK8. Bad choice, as that would cause the board to brown-out mid ride, and I'd get some very nice road-rash. Took out the LEDs, and it seemed like the problem went away, for two weeks. About two weeks ago, I switched to the metal controller box. The first ride with the board, I did a curb nudge after about twenty minutes of riding, and the board stated to make crunching noises intermittently, with no real pattern. Re-calibrating the motor caused this issue to go away, but after about twenty or so minutes later, the crunch came back. Double-checked settings, uploaded new firmware, reflashed the MK8, nothing fixed it.

I spent a solid week chasing everything that could possibly be the issue.

I can't tell you how many times I considered either tossing the board, parting it out or just straight up taking my mom's pint and doing unholy crap to that.

I think I've dialed it down.

VESC Tool has a command in the terminal called hall_analyze, which lets you.. analyze the halls? Idk, it's VESC Tool. It's both the best and worst thing to exist. It's supposed to be used to troubleshoot your motor halls. You're supposed to get nice, clean square-wave output, with nothing weird or fishy about it.

Above is my hall sensor. It's not clean, and it looks a little suspect. Those strange, sharp dips could be either Vesc tool absolutely crapping its brains out, my halls in the motor screwing up, or a mix of both. I already tried this with both my MK8 and Ubox, got similar results on both. Could be the motor, could be VESC tool. I hate this damn hobby-

So, where are we at right now?

Well, I have four new hall sensors coming in, because one of the hall sensors DEFINITELY has damage to them, and it'd probably be a good idea. I've ordered a replacement MK8 with 120V MOSFETTS, and I'm currently trying not to go insane.

Also, this is all happening in between finishing up my last couple weeks at work, packing up for my transfer to Texas State, preparing for an event I'm going to called San Japan (Going with a group of friends against my willpleasesendhelp-) and having to juggle adulting stuff.

Hopefully I figure this out in time.

I'll keep ya'll updated.
I have no idea how ya'll do this crap

@lemur nice
How far do the diodes throw the light? (Basically, could I use with on a street without a handheld light or would I still need one?)

@lemur very interesting
I'll have to look into that option
I remember Wren for CD using a setup like that for his board

Here's a pic of the tire change. You can see how terrible the old motor was (the motor with the purple cable)
I'm not even going to sell the motor. It's got 6k miles, the cable is messed up and the bearings are the same ones from day one. I'm going to bring it to a lecture one day to take it apart for a lab then keep it as a trophy.

The current goal now is to waterproof the board, finish my headlight project and then to give the board a visual overhaul

Got the Superflux on, currently don't have a picture yet
Things to note about installing a superflux-

The thunder tire is literal landfill. Just throw out the tire, it's not worth it. I had my tire for about two days, went on a trail ride and the tire developed a flat. Swapped it out for my old Enduro and it was much better

The male connector has way too much meat on the connector. IT needs to be trimmed because making it fit within the rails is a hassle and a nightmare. They should cut it by about half an inch from the cable in terms of connector for better flexibility. I already know two trail riders local to me who have done this.

The superflux hs HAS SOME GAS
That thing flies like a bat out of hell
It's one hell of a motor, and it was worth every penny

what LEDs are those? on your front controller box?
Also, I'm stupid jealous of your clean wiring. It looks amazing!

@lia

@biell someone is currently looking into it on the Vescify discord
Lemmie grab a screenshot of their current progress

@lia I don't know if you're interested in it, but I have my old XR BMS if you want it
It's a little toasty but it still powers on!

bought a Superflux HS Mk2

Will drop it in soon
Also working on a couple things rn, will keep ya'll posted once I finish it

For a second I thought this was a brand new thread and I saw the FTC shit and I was going "oh fuck" for a solid minute until I saw the dates

I've never had whiplash so hard before

hey, you wanna hear an idea so stupid it rolls around to being absolutely genius!?
No?

too bad

I went to Houston this past week. It was fun, and I got to ride a really cool bike path! However, I forgot my charger in Dallas.
While I was sitting in the park, waiting for my dad to pick me up from my ride, I was looking down at my phone powerbank. It has PD that could easily power a steam deck or a macbook. I then looked at my board.

Then the part of my brain that everyone wishes would stop working turned on, and I had a really cursed idea.
What if you could charge a onewheel off of USB-C PD? The idea is simple: You have a Type-C port that automatically demands 20V/the highest PD that the charger can support. You then had a DC converter that steps 20V (or whatever voltage you can pull out of your macbook/ipad charger) and step it up to say.... 75V?
Have an XT-30 plug that you can plugin GX-16, XLR, XT-30/60/90, Pint/GT, or whatever cursed plug your insanity-tinted glasses head likes to use!

Would this be useful? Probably! It's going to be ~$60 to build in parts, not counting filament cost.
I'm waiting on this for now as I have a couple projects I need to finish up.

@lia
Insert Texas not getting cold until early-December
Insert crazy texas weather

I hope to attend a really big onewheel event this year, and meet some people in the VESC community.
I'm also hoping to waterproof my board and to develop a couple cool things I've been cooking up, one of them involving a helmet addon

also, I will try not to crash again

I'm ALIVE!

So, found out the reason why my LEDs were freaking out was due to EMF from the phase wires. Will spend some time this weekend to cut up a spare USB cable to shield the headlight cable.

Also, I am considering seeing if I can look at waterproofing my board completely
I have a feeling the rain this year is going to be insane
I also built a trunk thing for the onewheel

I was gifted actual power tools and so I used them!

teardown vid by FixMyPEV

Yeah, saw the announcment for the announcment last night.
On the VESCIFY discord server, everyone hopped in VC and I polled what people thought it was going to be. 4 people (including me) thought it was going to be a new XR

Aside from that, it looks like it's just a GT, slimmed down, put in blue rails, with a 6-inch hub, wooden footpads and some new firmware.

It's about $1900, which is actually a steal compared to a stock GT. The board itself probably has it's own rails which aren't compatible with the GT or XR (that's what a majority of the Vescify server thinks, at least. Personally, I would think that they would at least reuse the GT rails but modify them to still be compatible, but still the same. It wouldn't be economical to design and make a whole new set of rails.)

I'm waiting to see what the TFL does with a teardown of the XR Classic (I'm dubbing it the XRC personally)

New update:
The motor has started to vibrate whenever I apply breaking. It's like haptic buzz vibrating. Updated firmware, recalibrated the motor and went through motor crunch troubleshooting.

What fixed it was unplugging the Hall sensor plug in my veac and plugging it back it.

A little confused now