i broke my smith forefront helmet yesterday. i took the fang minis off my xr cause they keep twisting around with the bang bumpers, and i took a corner too fast on the local singletrack. i guess the nose digged in, and somehow i flew off the board and managed to roll backwards on my back, and then bonk my helmet on the trails from the back. earbuds went flying out, and my helmet cracked pretty big time, though my head did not. i guess i needed a new helmet anyways :)

i put the fangs back on, turns out they are super useful even on dirty trails.

@Lia um i found the issue. any tips how to repair it? the xr battery has some extra glue around the wires i guess to prevent this from happening. the jw one does not.

since it deep in snowbo season right now, i just wanted to drop in and comment that i am a total spead freak on the snowboard, but i don't really push past 16mph on the onewheel. maybe go a little crazier on dirt trails, but pavement, hell no. snowboards won't turn off on you like the onewheel! fuck that

@maciak i just had this happen to me on my jwxr with ffm chip 4212 at about 50v ~37% battery going about 12 mph on the street. no pushback just lost power all of a sudden. i managed to ninja my way into a sprint, even with flightfins, without breaking any knees or legs. board showed error 16.

lately i've been seeing a bunch of error 16's sometimes, always at low speeds and sometimes with pushback. first time ever that i got ejected. it's been charging weird. the jwxr has a weird way of charging, but i often need to uplug the charger and plug it back in a few seconds later cause it seems to randomly stop charging. i don't know if that's related, didn't do that before.

i remember the mesh protection of the wire going from the controller to the battery has some wear. is that the cable i should be checking for issues? i guess with a voltmeter?

(i installed my jwxr in october of last year and it was pretty rock solid, didn't see my first error 16 until january this year and i was riding almost daily)

thanks

@notsure yeah I'm hindsight with all the crap I've been through with the pint and now the XR, I don't think I'm messing with the battery again. I'll probably go gt and leave it battery-stock.

@Lia any thoughts from the expert?

@lia also, looking at some installation pics from Oct, looks like those two wires were already a bit loose to begin with

all this is live, so it's a bitch to work on! i touched those two together really briefly and it sparked pretty bad 8:

@lemur amazing. i wonder how it feels compared to the kiilguards setup

@Lia i tested the harness cable and it's pretty solid at 120.3 ohms. gotta a vid too but not sure how to upload it here. gonna crack open the bms and see what's going on. i also have a newer ffm chip with upgraded firmware (something about a fix that performs pushback when there's a bad battery cell instead of shutting off) so i might as well swap that one in. i think my soldering skills are better now, as well as my tools.

flashing was a pain and not working until i realized i had a bad usb cable lol. then it flashed beautifully. got it all nicely soldered in (was weird that the green wire from the connector was to be left disconnected for this install!). and it works! though he's only getting stock range (it's a jwxr battery), so seems Mike needs to do some more homework. oh and this is with a new (used) BMS.

@lia ok i just finished resoldering the new ffm chip on and now just waiting for the badgering glue to dry so i can pu't it all back together again. i bought some resin core solder - this was the magic key i was missing to make perfect solders! the jw instructional videos were just using flux and that was really hard. if it was a bad soldering connection, which is possible cause my old job was garbage, hopefully this will alleviate the issue.

@lia thanks for the info! this is a different battery though.

ugh so range was good for a little while, but then he started getting battery temp out of range. had to walk 3 miles to get back to his car with his brick ow cause it wouldnt cycle back on. also, as you can see in the screenshot, the diagnostics page is missing a LOT of entries.

he filed an issue with owie, but it got closed, crossposting here
https://github.com/lolwheel/Owie/issues/57

"OK you def have hardware issues.

1. BMS is reporting over/undertemp - the status message has bit number 1 set on it.
2. One of the temp sensors seems to be busted/disconnected as it's reporting 0. I don't know which one is which.
3. Your cells seem to be super out of balance.

I'd suggest opening up the battery enclosure and wiggling the balance lead.

This ain't Owie issue, closing."

@Lia do you know where the battery temp sensors are? is this on the battery or the BMS?

seems like this is just another poorly made jw battery ?

flashing was a pain and not working until i realized i had a bad usb cable lol. then it flashed beautifully. got it all nicely soldered in (was weird that the green wire from the connector was to be left disconnected for this install!). and it works! though he's only getting stock range (it's a jwxr battery), so seems Mike needs to do some more homework. oh and this is with a new (used) BMS.

@s-leon depending on your budget, i'd recommend one of these

https://leatt.com/us/shop/mtb/protection/neck-braces

@s-leon hmmm coming from a north shore downhill mountain biking background, i have gotten adept at doing ninja rolls. i did a couple recently on pavement doing about 12mph (?) without padding and without losing anything but skin.

not trying to brag, but just wanted to point out that the technique is to use your elbow and roll with the force in a somersault or cartwheel. having my arm strapped down probably wouldn't allow that and i'd be in worse shape.

since you're all armored up, have you considered also getting a mountain biking neck brace? i have one for biking, and it saves you neck at the expense of a collar bone, which is worth it. but it needs to be used with a full face helmet.

@Lemur with your face, lol

@lia said in XR Error 16 (repaired):

I second removing the chip since you've proven the likely intermittent culprits so far

so.... two test rides so far. one very careful ride and one less careful ride, no issues. on the first ride, last night, i rode it down to 1%. what was really odd is that once at 1% (i wanted to test pushback at battery depletion) it took 20 min and about 2 miles of running around my street in circles to get it to actually throw up the need juice warning.

is this normal? or some kind of battery calibration now that the ffm chip is gone?

i also notice that the mile range indicator works too, so the ffm chip was definitely affecting that even at stock.

@lemur ok thanks so the inserts i got are also heat set inserts. in this case the hole is too big to just melt it in. what material should i fill it in with? some other plastic and then melt it again? or glue?

@samuraipunch yes that was a new insert. thanks for the link, will try those! any thoughts on type of glue to use?

@samuraipunch thanks

i bought these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZNWBBR3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

and used epoxy

but sadly the fucker started spinning once tightened.

any suggestions?