@aiden1983 At this point I cannot give you any good advice, just guessing.
Just be aware throwing parts at it may not be cost effective and may cause a massive short that can cause a fire, ask me how I know.
I always plug in the battery outside after a repair.
Maybe look for a working Pint controller circuit board instead. Sorry.
Posts made by Lemur
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RE: Pint controller repair
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RE: Pint controller repair
@aiden1983 Do you mean there's still a short between the source and drain with all the mosfets removed?
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RE: Pint controller repair
@aiden1983 Sorry, I got mixed up with another post asking about a Pint bms.
These are the mosfets you need. -
RE: HELP! My Pint BMS is sick.
@ikaruspint The conformal coating is soft and is easily removed with a toothpick, not use metal tools.
The discolored coating is normal as the conformal coating goes cloudy under heat especially at the Xt60 solder points.
Use a heat station for smd component removal, the solder on most factory circuit boards is non lead and reqiues more heat than leades solder. -
RE: HELP! My Pint BMS is sick.
@ikaruspint Here are the little mosfets that affect cell balancing.
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RE: HELP! My Pint BMS is sick.
@ikaruspint Unfortunately , I have only one Pint BMS left that I use for testing, seems like Xr, Pint BMS's are getting scarcer.
If you're in N. America, try Facebook. -
RE: Pint controller repair
@aiden1983 Probe the areas red "x" to red "x" and green "x" to green x with a ohm meter set to 200k and there should be no continuity.
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RE: Suspension build on a Pint X platform
@lemur Almost done, I need to get the raw metal parts painted or powder coated.
Rides like a dream too, totally predictable behavior. I'm using a Ubox 100v 100a with 22s but I only weigh 155 lbs and set full charge at 95%. -
RE: Suspension build on a Pint X platform
@lemur Update.
Pint suspension build with Ubox 100v.
Only one in the world, almost complete, just waiting for my Molicel cells so I can build the 20-22s battery and make a simple main battery harness.
The supension metal pieces are still in the raw, will be either painted or PC.
-Ubox 100v 100a controller- Techrails Stiletto rails
- Px battery box
- custom printed mini fenders from Floatershack
This build is based on my proven XR suspension models, except the components are lighter gauge as the XR suspension was overbuilt.
The stock controller box was shortened to make room for the swingarm.
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Suspension build on a Pint X platform
Since the XR suspension builds have proven bulletproof for up to 27s for the last couple of years, it's time to build one to fit the Pint.
It's just a start of the build but I'm confident that this will work, this design is based on the XR design, but scaled down with smaller com ponents.
I have Lia's PX battery box that has been used in another build.
Ubox 100v 100a and will be 20s.
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RE: Thor vesc in a Xr/Plus controller box
@kusosan I switched to the Mk8 because I'm running 27s now and 27s because Onewheel GTS chargers are perfect for this application.
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RE: Stokedstock bms
@syanelli Charging does not do anything to the controller as the charge negative goes to the bms.
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RE: Stokedstock bms
@syanelli Here's a simple crude diagram, but basically I eliminated the positive charge wire as it is tied into the controller positive from the charge port.
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Stokedstock bms
I replaced the Maxkgo charge only bms with the Stokedstock bms, I don't believe the Maxkgo ever balanced my battery pack as I never charge to 100%, the SSbms can be set to balance at a lower cell voltage.
After a few charge cycles with the SSbms, I can see the cells even out and is now at 0.01v deviation and in this case I set SOC to 100% at 4.15v.
The SSbms has it's own app and will read cell voltages in real time with many programable settings.
The SSbms is the best bang for the buck in my opinion. -
RE: PintXV power kit
@thedoc2025 Do you get any error messages on the "Float control" app?
Also before you change any settings, back up your configurations. -
RE: Thor vesc in a Xr/Plus controller box
@kusosan I never used the Thor 300 rgb light control, as there seems to be a lot of confusion and wiring issues.
Instead I used buck converters from the aux, ardruino nano for rear lights and white led strips for front lights. That system has been working well so I didn't feel the need to change it. There's a picture of my Thor300/XR set up earier in this post.
I'm no longer running a Thor and have moved over to Ennoid MK8 vesc now. -
I upgraded my suspension board to 113v
My main board is now 27s1p (113volts) using Molicel 45b's. It's not top speed I was after, but the quick acceleration that I like and the rock study nature of the ride.
Specs:
-27s1p Molicel 45b's
-Ennoid MK8 controller
-Stokedstock semi dumb BMS which has it's own app to show cell voltages
I choose 113v because GTS chargers are easily available and especially ones that have the charge connector cut off for 30-32 volt vesc conversion. My charger was gifted to me because the charge end was cut off.
Since the MK8 has no useable aux power out for lights, I went with a flashlight with a cheap tailight mounted with a bicycle snap on flashlight holder, I ride goofy so this setup works for me.
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RE: Thor vesc in a Xr/Plus controller box
@kusosan I used no paste or pad at first, then I tried thermal paste, but there was no difference in max temp. although I live in the the cool Pacific northwest.