Best posts made by Lemur

I went for a nice ride on the south seawall to buy the best fish 'n' chips from Go Fish in Vancouver. I'm pretty sure Britain has way better fish 'n' chips though.
I stopped along the seawall on a bench to eat my meal, so good!
A man with a little girl( his daughter) stopped and asked me about my suspension onewheel, seems like he knew a lot about onewheels.
He finally introduced himself as Ondy Ma, the founder of Surfwheel, he was quite interested in my board. I went on to tell him the original "wood" Surfwheel that was the first onewheel I ever vesc'd with a Trampa 6 .
Funny you never know who you meet.

I took a Pint controller, both boxes and a stock battery but no bms in part trade at $50 value. However, the controller suffered damage from a vnr that shorted out.
Testing the controller revealed a massive short that blew the fuse on my test harness.
Probing with a ohmeter showed a short between a phase connector and ground, so further testing came up with shorted mosfets controlling that phase connector.
I didn't have new mosfets, but I had harvested a few used ones, it was straight forward hot air replacement. I ordered new mosfets now TPH2R608NH
The controller works well now and been patched with Rewheel.

@lia I was cringing when they were poking their fingers in the bms area.
I don't think they know that "voltage'' symbol and orange cable means high voltage that can kill, all Jeff said was "cool orange cable".
Orange cables in hybrid and ev cars means " don't touch, don't probe, don't disconnect".
I worked as a government certified auto mechanic for road service CAA -Canadian Auto Association and we had auto makers put on seminars on their ev's all saying don't f with orange cables.
I know there's a argument about AC high voltage is more dangerous than DC high voltage eg. Edison vs Tesla, however I would be really careful with high voltage of any sort.

Since there's a renewed interest in the Rewheeded OG Pint , it's time to expand the Pint range beyond the JW/Chi battery.
I had Lia's battery box printed up last year, but there was no real advantage past the Jw battery as I hated riding the Og Pint with it's wicked pushback, but with Rewheel, it's my favorite board.
I followed the writeup in Reddit, I had to open up two low mileage Pint batteries to salvage 30 cells. I have to buy a bit of large blue shrink wrap to make it look nice.
https://www.reddit.com/r/onewheel/comments/z75ivc/built_a_pintx_battery_for_the_pint/
But seriously, does the PX rear bumper make my butt look big?

A fellow local group member asked me to resolder the footpad sensor connector in the controller, he brought in the controller only, already taken apart, I replaced the footpad connector as it was too badly damaged and reflowed the hall connector.

A week later he had a code 16 and again asked me to repair his board, this time he brought in the complete board. The poblem was broken wire in the harness.
After reassembling the board, now a code 3 (over voltage) code came up, I had to open up the contrller and he had used thick silicone insted of flowable silicone.

It took an hour just to open the controller up and clean up the mess. It looked like he had damaged the 80v cap and the inductor during his assembly, but replacement of those parts did not cure the code 3. I now had to go into the battery box, no thick silicone on this, I used my test bms and the code 3 was gone, so the problem in in his bms, after consulting a bms repair expert, he advised to check the small capacitors to the left of the Max chip as they get knocked loose, however they looked fine, but the caps were coated with a real thick coat of conformal.
I used a toothpick and poked around the caps to remove the conformal and two caps came off with the conformal. I resoldered those back on and the code 3 was gone.
I rode the board for a few days and all seemed to be fine, but that is not to be, yesterday, I tried to test ride it again and a code 16 came up. I opened up the controller box again and test contiuity on the bms data wires and all was fine.
Then I used my test harness and the code 16 was still there.
I then used my test bms and the code 16 was gone, so the problem is in the original bms. I checked the bms write up and looks like the Vp1786 transceiver chip may be the problem, I had a few of those chips so no harm replaceing it, after scaping away the thick conformal, the chip pretty well fell off, two legs came unsoldered, replacement was straight forward but had be be careful not to lift the solder pads. No more cde 16 after that chip replacement.

I went for a long ride and turned the board on and off many times with no trouble codes.
Those early 4206 bms's were rumored to be troublesome, also if you need to replace the controller lid seals. I used thin double sided tape, but run your fingers over the part of the tape that you dont want to stick to the plasic case.

@ed_co Did the conversion today, I have to make another shim as the present one is a little too thin, leaving too little axle endplay. It runs ,but can't upload a video.

I machined this 6061 aluminum Pint end cover while waiting for the Pint 357 skeletons to arrive. I really have to buy some Ti fasteners.
No cnc involved, just mind numbing measuring and hand machining.

@ed_co No, I don't have cad capabilities, sorry. I'm the last of the old school that draw plans on a napkin and figures out the procedures and machining in my head.
My lathe and milling machine are all manual with DROs.
I finished the offset axle project today.
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These new 357 rails are way too nice for a everyday rider.

@glyph I've got the shims made, I'll get them in the mail shortly.

Instead of building a completely different onewheel suspension design, I've decided to build a new improved model based on the first one.
The first build has been working well for over a year but had a few design flaws.
List of improvements:

• delrin plactic instead of brass swing arm bushings, delrin is self lubricating
  -upgraded the air shock to a new Marzocchi Bomber Air
• improved swing arm geometry for move suspension travel
  -moved the swingarm pivot back 1/8 inch for more connector clearances
  -controller wiring will be inside the rail instead of external
  -may use a Plus battery box with a Quart style battery, the Chi Stunt pact uses the 15s 1p Molicel 42a cells same as Quart. Shorter range, but lighter as this will be a grocery getter
  -I also have the option of vesc as I already have a XR controller box and vesc all set up for 18s.

I will be making the wire harnesses in the next day or two.

I built a short distance commuter:
-Homebrew rails from barter with a member of my local group
-Bargain 4210-4142 controller
-Gt rotor and tire from my GTR conversion
-Xr stator from the same GTR conversion
-Pint bms flashed to 4208
-Owie chip to interface with 4210
-Converted Plus harness to XR
-Repaired battery pack
-Kush lo front footpad with fsr 406 sensors.
Rides nice with 9 psi tire pressure.

Hacking a Superflux motor...
The stock SF motor with some wire juggling will work with a XR controller, but would not work with a Pint controller even trying all 36 wire combinations.
Jonathan Stock knew I was working mating a SF motor on a GT, so after a few idea exchanges I came up with modifications that makes the SF work on a Pint since I don't have a GT motor cable yet. I'm sure if the modified SF works with the Pint, then this will work on a GT.
I believe one of the bottle necks on the Gt is the motor and bms current limits.

-Rewheel og Pint with Tech Rails Stilettos, custom Kush footpad
-Thunder Rails, Superflux motor, with Xr controller
-Suspension board, Pint motor with Xr controller
-All have Jw batteries and Burris tires
I'm stepping back fron Vesc for now until the Floatwheel is in the wild.

@lemur Superflux/Gt works, I went for a ride and the Sf/Gt hybrid and it accelerates like a rocket and super quiet.
I'm really happy with the result.

Clocked, dropped and modular, I made a 4th revised set of axle adapters to mount a stock Gt, Superflux, and XR/Plus motor to stock Gt rails.
I reclocked the axle mounting holes to vertical instead of horizontal, apparently for better resistance to breaking the GT axle, dropped the rails .6" and made the adaptors useable on both long axle Gt and short axle Superflux, XR/Plus motors.
The GT axle is .500 " longer overall than the other motors, so a .250" removable spacer is used on each side of SF, Xr/Plus motors.
Anj Nakoff kindly donated a damaged GT stator which is now repaired and strengthened with rods and the voids filled with industrial epoxy.

My custom Superflux end cover with 12 bolts instead of the stock 6, I also added an "O" ring as the early SF motors only used silicone glue for the cover seal.

Re: Building a updated suspension board
I fabricated a few more pieces for my third suspension build, the controller box I may use is a printed one with a Ubox 100 in it , but things change as the build comes along and the rails are longer than stock to fit a larger tire than the Pint size. The swing arm pivot is stainless steel and self lubricatig delrin bushings.
I'm presently looking for an high end bicycle shock, even better than the Mazocchi air bomber, as I believe a top tier shock is the secret for any suspension, be it a car, motorcycle, bicycle or even a one wheeled balance vehicle.
Pictures of my 2 completed and partial suspension builds. Top one is XR controller based, middle is Thor with 20s2p battery.

@lia Great to see your work of art getting the recognition it deserves from Kyle and FM!

@lemur I restored the 4206 XR back to almost original, except for the faded rails, but the rails have the matching serial number. I already have modded Xrs and this one was very inexpensive.
-I installed nos footpads, low mileage Vega tire
-replace stripped and missing brass inserts

• repaired wiring harness as the rear lights were not working
  -repaired the motor connector and battery harness
• cleaned up the badly done "badgering", the previou owner used brown aviation cement for sealing , it took a couple of hours to scrape and clean.
  -helicoil stripped holes
  -resolder footpad connector inside the controller
  --rides really nice with the Vega tire

Just a personal view, but the Vega is a better tire than the Enduro, the Vega is a real gokart tire that can run high speeds and the Enduro is an offshore tire not made to gokart standards.
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