@lia Nope, not yet on the reflow station
Everyone I knew who had one left for greener pastures (They're all smarter and crazier than me and got scholarships to better colleges)

The LEDs flickering might have been a good thing too. It made me realize that those strips weren't bright enough for what I wanted (even though they were 24V)
Though I may end up putting my old stock XR headlights back in for now

@legolas Oof good luck with the rebuild! Any frame damage? I bought one that got hit by a van and was literally torn in 2. Would love to see the progress if you want to start a thread documenting your repair journey 🥰
I nuked my old MyMiniFactory but managed to grab some of it and put it on Printables.
Here's the battery box. https://www.printables.com/model/998377-onewheel-pint-x-lower-battery-housing
And the controller box. https://www.printables.com/model/998406-onewheel-pintx-lower-controller-housing

@LOAFFETTE Yeah this Pint was a bit of a mess 😢 I need to put a battery in it and BMS then rewheel it for pairing purposes but it's mostly there. Kinda just been sitting on it for the past 2 years since I've now got 8 boards, 5 of which are ridable so having a 6th felt like an unnecessary expenditure on batteries 😅

@lia said in The Onewheel GTXS (Half scale GTS):

@NotSure I'd love to sell these or partner with FM to bring these to market.

They would if they know what's good for 'em!

@biell What a legend!
This one is so much better. I do wonder how fiddly the glands will be coming right off the axle but like this looks really cool!

@stinkyface Thank yoooou <3 I was so stoked to see it posted on their Insta and channel 🥰

@lia Thank you!

I have to add another vote for the Enduro from TFL for the pint the pint enduro is a really nice replacement I had it when I had my pint X and I really loved it.

The last 4 months have been a blast, and I crossed the 1,000 mile mark today! I'm still tweaking my config and dealing with overheating when the temperature goes over 90°F and I am pushing the board hard on uphill trails. I've lowered my motor current, my ATR boost, removed my Float Life Savers, installed PubHubs, and removed parts of my rail guards. I'm almost there, afraid I will have to remove the rest of my rail guards.

On a non-heat related note, I really just didn't like the Halo footpads. I'm now using Kush Hi on both front and back and I'm loving that.

Screenshot_20240705-180100.png

Planning on picking this up again as I want to make a better XR but while doing a bit of casual research for another project I found I'm not the only one that managed to clone this PCB.

Take a look at the one on the left and then compare it to the pic of an XR controller on the right.
Controller Clone.jpg
Bear in mind the current sensing chips beside the motor connector are actually also the same as on the V1/Plus. Everything is the same, down to some of the silk screening.

So what is it? It appears to be a controller for an EUC back from 2016. I found the image on a forum (linky). Image courtesy of esaj.

I did a bit of digging and traced the company called HopeMotion whose website no longer exists but archive.org got a few links saved. https://web.archive.org/web/20160308233001/http://hopemotion.com/
3401c230-32a8-41cf-a8d5-bc1b6b429ec2-image.png

The company states in 2013 it "is mainly engaged in the development and industrialization of high-efficiency and energy-saving motors, drivers, and controllers for electric vehicles. The company has a group of high-quality R&D and management teams".
I assume FM either worked with them or had them manufacture their initial runs in which the PCB design got yoinked. The only information regarding the cloned PCB starts in 2016 which is well after the kickstarter for the Onewheel completed and a year before the Plus.

Anyone know more about this? Maybe worth it's own topic if there's more to this.

I did initially assume this may have been related to the CES incident back in early 2016 but I couldn't find a connection.

Anyway in other news I've managed to get my hands on a 4212 PCB (for a repair I'll post about another day) so I can work on redoing the design on a more modern layout minus the stuff that bricks modding.
IMG_7204.JPEG

IMG_7205.JPEG

IMG_7206.JPEG

IMG_7207.JPEG

This redesign was more sensibly designed with no need for the large power wires jumping the PCB. Also the motor and footpad sensor connectors got a well needed reinforcement.

@lia I'm not sure what the op did, something reversed or wired wrong.

@loaffette NP.
Go for it.

@lemur damn, got it
thank you

@loaffette The only board that I know of where FM guarantees the cell types is the GT-S. So, I would recommend going with someone who advertises the cells anyway, so you know exactly what kind of battery you have.

Okay, to further look at the potential of a 20s3p vs a 30s2p battery addition to a GT. I went looking for the weakest link in the setup.

The ideal would be a superflux motor, Thor 300 or x12 controller and enough room for this big dumb battery idea.

Looking at either controller. Neither would have trouble with the voltage below 100v and neither would have trouble seeing 300amps across the mosfets.

I've been having trouble finding the peak power of the superflux motor. They give a peak torque of 80nm.

I decided to use some information from another spec sheet I could find and try to cross reference the info to fill in some blanks.

The GT motor, hypercore, produces 26.6nm at roughly 980 rpms. This produces a total wattage output of 2726watts.

If we expect the NM of the superflux HT to be 80nm then at 980rpms it should produce 8210watts with the same voltage and enough current to draw from.

That would be 109amps at 75V. So far, I have seen higher then that on a lot of videos. So, either my rpm estimate for their peak power is off, or my math is just dumb.

Regardless, changing the amount of current available for the motor has its limits, but there is still room above 20s2p. If we work with my numbers.

A Samsung 50s 20s2p battery produces 50-90A of continuous to burst discharge. This leaves at least 19A on the table of current draw from the superflux. Granted we're getting into territory of overheating the motor with the stress, but it is room.

That means a Samsung 50s 20s3p battery, putting out 75-135A of discharge fully utilizes the superflux motor. And should still fall within the controller capabilities based on the typical motor current values I've seen adjusted for the 33% potential increase of current.

But we may just see a Thor overheat if I build this thing. I'll add a copper heatsink to the underside of the controller, flush with the bumper. This isn't a trick board, just downhill. so, obviously no nose slides.

@lemur that's about what I figured. The 30S version seems appealing for my current build interest. I do a lot of downhill riding. I started out on a long board bombing hills. Speed doesn't scare me and my ankles are in great control of a one wheel, even with a high psi.

I'm looking to build a setup that can handle a lot of braking power. Coming up to a corner at 30mph and not knowing if trust the board to stop or tail slide through the turn is a bit concerning.

I have a 20s2p 250r GT that I am looking to upgrade from. Even with that setup, I can't seem to get it to fully support the amount of control I need for the corners.

I'm looking to build out a custom controller box to fit an extra 20cells and possibly run the x12.

@zatrkrisp Sixty?!

@lemur He's a pretty cool guy. Nice to know you've both spoken before 😊
Hopefully I'll get to see his tall Pint build. That thing looked insane!

@lia Thank you!

@yommoto
[Not a GT/GT-S rider in person, but] AFAIK there is (still) no nRF digi-tilt capability for those boards after recent major update. FM prevented this for GT/GT-S platform, so ppl would forcefully "enjoy" their 'Custom Shaping 3.0' feature instead of angled aftermarket rails (or both together). And this is also why TFL came up with 'Dub Tails' design for this target group -- so at least rear half end of the board remains W-shaped.
Correct me if I am wrong at some point.