Posts made by Lia

@thedoc2025 That's weird. Do you have any packages like refloat/float installed in vesctool?
If so could you take a screenie of the appUI page when trying to balance?

@studentde Hope you find many participants for the survey :) Just got done filling it in

@lucky E16 is commonly a broken wire in the harness between the battery box and controller. It can also be the chips either end of this cable on the BMS and Controller but it's less common.

Repair
You can either attempt to repair this yourself if you're somewhat handy or get a shop to look at it. If you reach out to local Onewheel FB groups they may have a go-to repair guy.

To do it yourself I'd start with testing and then replacing the harness with one from FM https://onewheel.com/products/xr-main-cable-harness.
If you're handy then you can attempt to find the broken cable and reseal the harness. It isn't fun but if you want to try that then @Lemur did something similar but ran an extra wire. The same principle applies for dissecting and splicing in a new wire. I'd suggest probing them first before starting the work.
https://owforum.co.uk/topic/144/plus-harness-to-xr-conversion-i-also-posted-on-fb

If there's no break then it's likely a chip either end and gets a little harder to do for most people.

Sell
In it's current condition assuming nothing else is wrong with it you may get an easy sell. A lot of DIYers like to buy faulty XRs to convert to VESC. The E16 on some conversions isn't an issue as the bits that went wrong can be worked around or go unused. Your local FB Onewheel group is likely the best bet to find a buyer.

@deeph Oh this might be a later model board where they removed that data :/
Give it a balance charge overnight and see if it improves much. Over time of leaving it a little longer after you see green you may claw back some range.

@deeph Congrats on getting more range back :)
Sometimes with batteries like this the cells can get out of balance. If you leave it on charge a little longer like a few hours or a day even it gives the BMS time to cycle the cells so they're all similarly balanced. I wouldn't recommend doing this a lot as keeping it fully charged for long times degrades lithium batteries.

If you use the OWCE app you can see the 15 cells and if they're all within like 0.1v of eachother. If they're all the same when it stops balancing then the battery is just worn out. However if you see just a few really low and others with power still then it likely needs a longer balance charge.

@lemur I cannot get enough of how cool your boards are.
The added light attachment is just

@imgermg If you can turn on the board you may be able to use the OWCE app to check voltage.
https://owce.app/install

If not the only other way to measure is to take it apart and measure with a multimeter at the battery connector.
I have labelled the 2 pins you can measure without unplugging the battery but be careful not to short them.

@quicksanddyoung 28000 Miles! Wow that's amazing. Congrats 🥳

@divouneh Glad you're okay 🤗
Hope these help you keep safe but fingers crossed you don't need them

@divouneh That's amazing 😊
Any ride in particular been your fave so far?

Hiatus over but I'm still a bit slow atm. Health thingy (I'm okay don't worry just recovering still)

Been struggling to figure out a way to stop battery voltage being present at the charge port. A diode is the obvious answer but it introduces a voltage drop which when current is passed will heat up heaps. I could use a fet instead but as the voltage is always present one side I can't easily make a small circuit to block the voltage and turn on when present in the reverse. Giving up I just added an inline smd 3a fuse so if something does go wrong it blows without stopping the board working. That leaves the charge protector to do the heavy lifting keeping the 29.4v from escaping.

If anyone's got any better idea's I'm all ears :3

Before trying with a battery I checked if the board could power on and validate the power being received. Sure enough it was happy ^-^

With all my fingers and toes crossed I plugged in the battery and connected it all up. Surprisingly without any drama it worked and I was able to bring the battery back up to something sensible.

So now came the fun bit. Does it go beep beep zoom zoom?

And now with the footpads set to ghost?

Lil demon child. It's after my ankles for sure! However it's got no grip at all with that PLA tire so it's about time I got that sorted. With a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layer height I have begun printing the halves of the master tire to make a silicone mould with. It's gonna take a while though at this resolution... like... nearly 40 hours per side and that's not including the outer shell for the moulds which will at least be printed in a much lower resolution.

One side is done but still waiting on t'other. Enjoy a glam shot of it before post processing 😊

@divouneh Don't feel nobody is interested. If you're having fun sharing then do please continue :) The forum is a place of shared experiences and community 🤗
It's been a pleasure seeing something pop up in recent to read through especially while I'm out of action atm.

@fosterqc Omg yes that would be so cool. Would you keep the power side the same for authenticity or make it a sleeper build?

@divouneh Congrats on breaking new milestones.
Grass is pretty forgiving to ride so I'm sure you'll master that quickly. It's not as bad falling off at least 😅

It was finally time to add the XT30 😊 I've been putting this off for a veeeeeeeery long time.

And thankfully without issue (other than be knocking the headlight connector off) it woooooooooooorked!
SHE LIIIIIVES!!!! 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

(apologies for the vertical video but sorta filmed it for Insta)

I'm so happy it booted up fine. Batteries are a little lower than I thought so after a brief hiatus I'll rig up the charger and get it back to nominal. Unlike the XS I will be able to actually see the battery health too 😅

Woke up to some freshly printed parts. One in particular this fender delete. Might possibly be one of the largest prints on the resin machine I've done yet.

After post processing that a little I got the harness headers controller side fit and tested.

Lights in the front and rear all sink up so that's a bonus. No pic of the lights since I was holding wires together but trust me it looked fab. I just need to attach the battery connector now but I forgot I never painted the female end of the xt30. Trouble is painting these is really tedious. Too much and you ruin the finer details. Too little and you see the yellow.

I then remembered you can dye some plastics and would you know it these xt30's are made of nylon (or something very similar) which takes dye easy. A bowl of boiling water, some synthetic dye and about 10 minutes of stirring got me some really nice orange connectors!

Unlike paint it doesn't scratch off as easy which is a bonus and no more masking the tiny metal bits!

I ran out of time today to fit them so instead I'll leave you with some more cool pics of the XS and prototype GTXS together 🥰
GTXS sporting the new high kick rear pad and the fender delete now.

@lemur It's really hard not to 😅 Like I know inside some of the details like the "Destroy Boredom" on the inside of the bumper or the little FM branding on the controller will never be seen by most but it feels good to add it ^-^ Little easter eggs I guess.

Hi all,

Anyone got a GT controller enclosure/housing kicking about they're happy to sell?
I want to try build up a VESC in a GT platform but I'm lacking an enclosure for the controller. Gonna keep my current GT as it is so I have a spare board that's still got some power behind it😊

Next challenge was making the controller lid. I wasn't sure if I wanted to resin print it, resin cast it or pay to have it CNC'd out of polycarbonate. Since the former is easiest and the latter the hardest and more expensive I decided to give it a shot. My curing station looks like I'm up to some evil shenanigans so enjoy a picture of that.

I won't bore you with the early prototypes and failures with me snapping one in half because I overcooked it with the print settings. Instead here's pretty happy final versions

Bottom one is the new one. Seems counter intuitive at first but printing with all the nasty support on the flat nice side allows you to easily sand down the surface and get a suuuuuper smooth finish. 1000 grit final and a light buff with some clear coat made it pop.

I still need to work on the gaskets and I had a dilema. Do the stock black one that's kinda boring and keep it vanilla ooooor use a much more thematically coloured TFL gasket. I put a poll out on Insta and the results spoke for themselves.

So guess I'll be making go faster blue gaskets when I get the material and dye.

Meanwhile a little care package came in the post. Thanks to the legend himself Radim Klaska for sending me a GT controller, BMS and a pint controller for some future devious plans. Using them side by side with the GTXS you can kinda see how similar I managed to get them.


I'll be pulling it apart to reverse engineer a custom controller and get a schematic out of it for some experiments I have planned. However here it serves well to demonstrate scale 😊

Back to the main goal again. The board won't do much if I don't get a charger made for it so with callipers at the ready I managed to replicate a brick and cram some magic smoke inside. I'm using a USB PD module to take in power and request 20v. Then a CC-CV boost converter to take the 20v and send a set current into the board until it gets near 29.4v where it'll hold that voltage to top off the cells. Basically how any normal lithium charger works that's not complete trash.

For the charge port itself I'm using some magnetic pogo pin connectors. They work really well and despite being 6mm in diameter this one can do 2amps. Added bonus is they're super satisfying to snap in. It's like magsafe for Onewheels (for ants)

Will come back to this when I resin print the final parts for the plug and charge brick. In the meantime I needed to figure out the harness. I wanted it to be orange like the GTS but finding multicore cable with 2x14awg + 3x24awg wire inside less than 8mm in diameter was a bit of a stretch so I came up with a solution.

Use a mould to encase the wires taught and in position then pour a flexible silicone over. Once cured demould and use heat shrink to get a uniformly round and flexible cable. Heat shrink alone will be weird and kinky. as it conforms to the wires inside and be less durable. I did a test piece first with some offcuts and despite being very messy it worked!


You can also see I made my own glands. The existing ones on the market just didn't scale right and the fitment was poor so a bit of CAD resulted in some functional yet scale looking glands.

In an older prototype the cable fits nice and snug. Minor kinks where some silicone hadn't set right or the wiring wasn't taught but overall looks great!

With that being a success it was time to crack on with the final one. I did have to crimp some insanely small connectors for the headlight and battery harness wires. Did these with some tweezers. They are tiny! Here's one under the scope.

I changed the mould a little this time and taught the cables before putting in which helped a lot although made slotting them in a faff. But it all went in well and cast really nicely.

I ran out of time last night to put the headers and connectors on controller side but I'll hopefully do that tonight and share the results of the board running off it's own power 🥰

Until then enjoy this render and little pic I took for my application to this years OpenSauce.

Hiiiii guys.
Guess who forgor to update the thread again 🥺 (It's me, hi, I'm the problem, it's me)
I'm really bad at keeping this updated. At least you all get a condensed version of events this way.

Let's hop in the time machine and zip back to December last year~

@cheppy44 was over here and we decided to take a crack at the custom VESC. We prepped another cheap foccer 2 as the transplant patient provided by Quinn 🙏 (thank you again)

Taking the parts off was made easier by the big hot plate I got but by the end of it this PCB was cooked.

We got everything moved over and just needed a few special components. Compared to a can of Pepsi it's absolutely tiny 🥰

A broken pint was used as a donor for the mosfets. When designing the board I thought it'd be funny to use actual FM parts in the build where I could.

Other than a bodge wire on the IMU which took way too many attempts than I'm willing to admit the PCB was perfect.

But no like seriously we spent days trying to get the IMU to work 😭

My resistor sample book somehow managed to package 51k resistors where 1k ones should have been so that's what the resistor is off to the side. I didn't have any others spare at the time to swap >.> But once it was in the LEDs worked fine too.

Head and tail lights needed testing so during Christmas we got it to demo itself being festive 🥰

The white LEDs are not lit in these with how I set it up. The first LED in each headlight are sent to a ws2811 chip that on the blue pin goes to all the white LEDs. With this I can control the high beam by setting that LED in the chain to anything including a blue signal and it will light up. This way when front and rear swap so will the main beam without any additional code since red has no blue but white does. In code I can then pull the main beam LEDs to 0 if I want to toggle them off which I will do with a custom version of refloat I'll get to once this is mostly together.

At some point in adding the daughterboard a single lil solderball managed to kill the main STM chip. It booted up and then upon trying to hold the motor sent like 29v to the chip down one of the sense pins. Oops. Cooked it :( After some tears I did manage to pull off the old one and put a fresh chip there then used an STLink to flash it.

With a bit more faffing we had it running. There was another mistake on the daughterboard where the pins were mapped backwards so we had to run it using more bodge wires while waiting for the new ones to show up.

Nick had to leave mid January and things took a brief hiatus while I readjusted to being here on my bill. But eventually I got back into the swing with the arrival of the new parts.

It was however time to stop faffing and get on with the battery. We tried it before Nick left but my 2x3s LiPos were out of commission and some 6s ones I got were too much for the KWeld. Instead with a new Turnigy battery I got the welder working an was ready to get the 7s1p pack made.

Balance leads were a bit thick but I didn't want to re-crimp and pin the header so used the one that came with the BMS and used a little bit of hotsnot to hold it in place before putting the blue goodness around the pack.

I don't know why but the pack just feels unsafe until the blue stuff is wrapped around it. Before I'd tentatively pick it up but now I'll throw and twirl it about without a care. Might say more about me personally. Out of sight out of mind... definitely out of my mind!

I still needed some stuff to make the harness so I instead moved to cutting the motor cable to length. Risky step and I don't like it. Too much cut off and it won't reach. Too much and you have to do it again >.> But I managed to nail it so we good 🥰

However when I went to test it I got an error I wasn't expecting. Apparently phase 3 was drawing current no matter what the board was doing.

Long story short Phase 3 doesn't get monitored by the DRV chip but instead via U3. This appeared to have cooked itself so if you have a cheap foccer 2 and get HIGH_OFFSET_CURRENT_SENSOR_3 remove U3 and replace it. Funnily enough Nick also had this happen to a VESC he was using and the same fix was needed so seems to be a common enough fault.

No more fault light and a happy lil VESC. Didn't bother recording it spinning as it's the same as previous and I needed my phone to control it and record so wasn't gonna happen. Just have to trust me it works 😊