Posts made by Lia

They were happy for me to re-install it since popping stators back in is a bit of a hairy task. Gotten a little used to it now so happy to do it.

However I don't have the rail to actually handle this properly... but I do have a lot of scrap wood.

Card around the magnets as a barrier for when it inevitably wants to scrape on it's way down. Stupid easy drop in with a little extra convincing with the press to seat it onto the hub bearing properly.

And there it is. I don't have the plate either so left the bearing off the other side. It's easier and imo better to mount the bearing on the plate then slide that onto the axle. It'll hopefully get collected at some point and be put back to use. Hopefully this time not in water 😩

I'll let y'all know if this truly was a success once I hear back. But based on measurements it seems all good.

Bearings came out great after a few more cleaning soaks and scrubbing. Repacked them with grease which as expected made them no longer spin freely but they're smooth and clearly going to last longer now.

Cleaned up the magnets too while I was at it. There was a few bits of dried gunk and some corrosion stains on them. Thankfully those mostly came off with a bit of vigorous scrubbing.

Touched up the hall joints as they seemed a little off. Redid the other joints too just while I was at it which made them easier to check. All seemed to measure right after doing so which is good since I don't have any spare.

I finally got that phase pin that was blackened clean and measuring fine too. I don't have a floatwheel motor connector to mate it too and test it but I put my probes in relatively loose and they all measure when testing between all 3 combinations.

So with it electrically and visually looking fine it's time to put bits back together.

I'm only putting the hub bearing in for now while I wait for the owner to say if they would like me to completely re-assemble it or leave the stator out so they can check my work first.

Been getting a lot of use out of this press. Definitely got a good feel for it despite what people say about using these for seating bearings.

Hope to let y'all know soon if it works or not once they get it back. If it does I might pop open my old XR that I used to submerge while riding through streams. See how bad it is and refurbish it given I know I can do it.

@wheelwizard Seems like it. It's been confirmed it went through some mud and I've been finding it in the stator still.
Rust is now mostly gone after a LOT of scrubbing with a toothbrush, WD contact cleaner and #0000 steel wool.

After constantly rotating the motor, adding cleaner, scrubbing and seeing brown keep appearing in bits I'd already gone over I realised there was actual mud between the plate stacks. I managed to sweep out one and sure enough... clean. So went through and did the rest.

Will have to wash the motor off after to make sure no steel wool or stuff is still just floating around on the motor before assembling but it's on the home stretch ^-^

@beardonaboard Ikr. I was in shock at how bad it looked!
Also hyped to see you here <3

Me and the rust are wearing each other down. War of attrition but I think I'm winning 😤

It's taking a while and honestly been taking little breaks to see if I can repair the bearings. These are so damn expensive and ngl I feel like they're not as disposable as we're treating them. So I've been whittling away with a toothbrush and dish soap.

There is a shocking amount of stuff that I slowly managed to work out. Like without pulling the cage and peaking at the balls it's hard to tell what was truly causing the issue since this clearly isn't just water damage. Silt maybe? It wasn't crunchy like when you get sand in the bearing and the colour was brown like mud so maybe it was that. Pretty bad regardless to completely lock it up.

Anyway I finally got them to spin. Not perfectly so I'll see if I can keep cleaning but this is progress. I wonder if I can actually restore these to a usable standard.

These were completely seized before so I'm a little surprised they spun at all. Especially since there seemingly wasn't any amount of force you could put into these to rotate even a little.

These are now sitting in an isopropyl bath overnight with a little agitation now and then. I may result to using some more harsher chemicals on these for some of the nastier looking corrosion present on the exteriour if I can't clean those off with some #0000 steel wool.

@lemur Thanks :)
Hoping the windings are fine. I have another cannoncore with a completely cooked phase so I don't fancy rewinding 2 motors 😅

Just a heads up. I'm in the process of planning a large upgrade to the forum to bring it in line with the latest major release. Should run a little better and come with a few new features.

I'm going to run an upgrade to the latest release on a sandboxed offline copy of the forum so I can test it out first and make sure nothing too drastic changes that may cause confusion.

If all goes well I'll be taking another backup and scheduling in the upgrade with some prior warning in case I need a bit more downtime than expected.

@hydropage Sorry to hear you nosedived. Do you recall the events and conditions prior to it happening?
Like the type of terrain, estimated speeds if you can and if there were any obstacles like rocks, roots or some other object that could have contributed.

It may be worth recording a few rides using the app and seeing what sort of utilisation the board is under especially in the area it happened to try figure out a possible cause for the nosedive to occur without any noticeable warning.

Been asked to take a look at a stator from a Floatwheel that's been flooded.
I've become the go to for "nobody else will even look at it" jobs. What can I say, I like a challenge. That and I'm stubborn.

The board was supposedly "washed" but looks like it's been submerged or pressure washed since the stator has a clear line where it was left on it's side half full of water and the owner stated there was a puddle in the motor when the stator was removed, dripping with water. Board had been leant out to someone that had done this. I won't get further into the details since I'm not interested in throwing shade. I'm just here to fix the sad little motor.

Not pictured is one phase pin is completely charred so likely the gradual seizing of the motor drew too much power and nearly obliterated the pin itself. Might be recoverable but I'll see. The big chunk of rust has my attention atm.

The bearings on both sides are completely seized too which is what prompted the owner to suspect the board had been mistreated. They do not turn at all like they're a singular chunk of metal. Popping the seals gives a little hint as to why.

Pulling them wasn't too hard. The hub one came out fine in my hydraulic press (only use one for bearings if you know how to do it, you'll crack a casing otherwise).

The other one needed some persuasion with a puller and a hammer to tap it free. Used the block and some scrap metal to help pull it off the seized portion then tapped it off the rest of the way.

Waiting on some more chemicals to help me remove the rust without stripping the copper enamel.
Will update this as I go. Didn't see much online about restoring motors especially Onewheel ones so figured I'd bring y'all along for the ride to see if it's do-able.

Hey Drysurfer :) Welcome to the forum and float family.
We'd love to hear and see your adventures as you explore on your Pint X 😊

@jayjay That's weird?
What does the app look like. Could you share a screenshot

An pic from August when me and @cheppy44 had a picnic down by the river.

Updated the groups to include some of the newer models like the GT-S XL since I know at least one of you lot own one 🥳 (I'm jealous)

I don't think there's really any others I need to add unless anyone thinks the Fungineers X7/X10 boards deserve their own group(s)?
Added

@divouneh Cracked the 20mph barrier! Congrats ^-^

@justinxr Could be the corner bolts that hold the end of the rail down to the bumper. I usually forget or just don't bother adding those ones since they can sometimes get stuck.
If you remove the footpads you can check those either end without having to take it all apart again.

If not those there's 2 that directly hold the controller box to the rail rather that passing through the bumper you can check.

@cw_o Best of luck with the swap :)

When you do boot it up lemme know what the hardware version (42XX) shows as as I'm actually curious if there was a batch that had the alternate design.

@cw_o Oooh yours uses the small one. Are you sure it's an XR? Like when it's powered on does it give a model hardware revision like 42XX?
I only ask because on the older XR models there are 2 spots for an IMU and the smaller one doesn't even use that footprint. Below is a an example of the same area on a 4208.

Regardless the chip you found appears to have the right pinout for the smaller one. The newer 4212 models use the same style IMU just with the blue PCB and complete rework of the layout. 2 pads look to be torn but they're unused so thankfully not an issue.

@loaffette said in Vesc Conversion Status (Rose/Mika):

I managed to obliterate my motor cable on my Superflux

Oh.... wow!
Sorry that happened but dope you got a new cable for free.

Fingies crossed it all works again so you can go clear out them lungs with some zoomy zooms.

@cw_o Welcome :)

If the price is okay I'd take the risk. Getting actual chips from companies like Mouser, Digikey and LCSC can be pricey once you get to the shipping screen. I've gotten chips from eBay and AliExpress (likely the same source) without many issues for things like IMUs, Mosfets and a handful of logic ICs.
Get multiple though just in case you need to redo it. No more than 5 should be fine. IMU's are fragile so you may need to try a few times.

@cw_o

• If they have a reflow/hot air station then that's the tool you need :) Air for the chip and an iron to touch up the pads.
• Before removing the chip make note of it's orientation for when you replace it.
• Use some isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab to clean the area and remove some of the conformal coating. It'll get in the way otherwise and possibly compromise a good solder job.
• 180c-200c on the hot air station should be fine to get it off without putting too much heat in the pcb. If you find after a minute it's still not showing signs of moving you can carefully increase the temp but not by much.
• Airflow setting somewhere in the middle. Not so much it flings off parts but not so slow it doesn't put heat in fast enough to fight the power planes heat dissipation.
• Don't hold the heat in one spot as you can popcorn a PCB. Rotate it around the chip so that you get a more even distribution of heat.
• Flux is your friend and will help get under the chip to get the solder molten.
• Don't pry it off, wait for it to be loose and lift up gently with tweezers.

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• Once off clean up the pads gently with some solder wick and then use some cotton swabs to take up some flux before cleaning and visual inspection to make sure all pads are good.
• When wicking it's best to cut off a small section and press the iron onto the wick. You can move gently over the top with the iron or if easier use tweezers on the wick.
• Don't pull too hard as the pads can momentarily solder to the wick and tug which can result in a torn pad. If you find the wick has become soldered just apply flux and hold the iron there for a few seconds then try to move it sideways gently while still applying heat. Never pull the wick up.
• As the pads for this chip are under it you'll need to prepare the pads with solder before placing the chip. Go over with a soldering iron and pre-tin them so that they are slightly raised enough that they'll contact and flow onto chip. Not too much that they might squish and bridge. Bit of an art to knowing how much is right. Make sure this iron doesn't get too hot. The pads are delicate and too much heat from an iron can cause them to de-laminate.
• Apply some flus in the middle of the pads where the chip will sit and place it on top as centered as you can get it.
• Bring the hot air back over. The flux will melt and pool around the chip. To stop it shooting off I prefer to try hit it with heat top down so the air doesn't try to blow it away wince we're not holding the chip.
• Eventually you should see it wiggle into place as the solder and flux pull it into alignment. You can give it a gentle tap with the tweezers to make sure it's actually soldered because it'll snap back when slightly poked.
• You can press down a little on top to squish the solder and make sure all pads flowed to the chip. Don't do it with force, just a little to press it down and remove the heat. Hold that for 20-30 seconds to ensure the solder ahs set and you can let go of the chip.
• Use another cotton swab to cleanup the flux and then isopropyl to get the rest of it.

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Before powering on I recommend grabbing a multimeter and checking the voltage rails and some of the capacitors for shorts to ground. The caps should have 1 to ground and the other to data so if any are bad then you may have a bridged solder joint under the chip and will have to repeat the process with less solder.

Below is a reference for the traces in the area if it helps at all.