@billegerton If you have a 3D Printer you can print this cable retention clip that has a space for an airtag.
https://www.printables.com/model/853750-onewheel-gt-motor-harness-retainer-and-airtag-hold
If not TFL sell one :)
https://thefloatlife.com/products/wtf-motor-cable-retention-clip-airtag-holder
@billegerton Hiya :)
Congrats on getting a Onewheel ^-^
As long as your inverter can provide the power draw from the charging brick that shouldn't be an issue.
@divouneh Your commitment and consistency is bringing me sooo many good vibes. Keep it up ^-^
@thedoc2025 That's weird. Do you have any packages like refloat/float installed in vesctool?
If so could you take a screenie of the appUI page when trying to balance?
@studentde Hope you find many participants for the survey :) Just got done filling it in
@lucky E16 is commonly a broken wire in the harness between the battery box and controller. It can also be the chips either end of this cable on the BMS and Controller but it's less common.
Repair
You can either attempt to repair this yourself if you're somewhat handy or get a shop to look at it. If you reach out to local Onewheel FB groups they may have a go-to repair guy.
To do it yourself I'd start with testing and then replacing the harness with one from FM https://onewheel.com/products/xr-main-cable-harness.
If you're handy then you can attempt to find the broken cable and reseal the harness. It isn't fun but if you want to try that then @Lemur did something similar but ran an extra wire. The same principle applies for dissecting and splicing in a new wire. I'd suggest probing them first before starting the work.
https://owforum.co.uk/topic/144/plus-harness-to-xr-conversion-i-also-posted-on-fb
If there's no break then it's likely a chip either end and gets a little harder to do for most people.
Sell
In it's current condition assuming nothing else is wrong with it you may get an easy sell. A lot of DIYers like to buy faulty XRs to convert to VESC. The E16 on some conversions isn't an issue as the bits that went wrong can be worked around or go unused. Your local FB Onewheel group is likely the best bet to find a buyer.
@deeph Oh this might be a later model board where they removed that data :/
Give it a balance charge overnight and see if it improves much. Over time of leaving it a little longer after you see green you may claw back some range.
@deeph Congrats on getting more range back :)
Sometimes with batteries like this the cells can get out of balance. If you leave it on charge a little longer like a few hours or a day even it gives the BMS time to cycle the cells so they're all similarly balanced. I wouldn't recommend doing this a lot as keeping it fully charged for long times degrades lithium batteries.
If you use the OWCE app you can see the 15 cells and if they're all within like 0.1v of eachother. If they're all the same when it stops balancing then the battery is just worn out. However if you see just a few really low and others with power still then it likely needs a longer balance charge.
@lemur I cannot get enough of how cool your boards are.
The added light attachment is just
@imgermg If you can turn on the board you may be able to use the OWCE app to check voltage.
https://owce.app/install
If not the only other way to measure is to take it apart and measure with a multimeter at the battery connector.
I have labelled the 2 pins you can measure without unplugging the battery but be careful not to short them.
@quicksanddyoung 28000 Miles! Wow that's amazing. Congrats 🥳
@divouneh Glad you're okay 🤗
Hope these help you keep safe but fingers crossed you don't need them
@divouneh That's amazing 😊
Any ride in particular been your fave so far?
Hiatus over but I'm still a bit slow atm. Health thingy (I'm okay don't worry just recovering still)
Been struggling to figure out a way to stop battery voltage being present at the charge port. A diode is the obvious answer but it introduces a voltage drop which when current is passed will heat up heaps. I could use a fet instead but as the voltage is always present one side I can't easily make a small circuit to block the voltage and turn on when present in the reverse. Giving up I just added an inline smd 3a fuse so if something does go wrong it blows without stopping the board working. That leaves the charge protector to do the heavy lifting keeping the 29.4v from escaping.
If anyone's got any better idea's I'm all ears :3
Before trying with a battery I checked if the board could power on and validate the power being received. Sure enough it was happy ^-^
With all my fingers and toes crossed I plugged in the battery and connected it all up. Surprisingly without any drama it worked and I was able to bring the battery back up to something sensible.
So now came the fun bit. Does it go beep beep zoom zoom?
And now with the footpads set to ghost?
Lil demon child. It's after my ankles for sure! However it's got no grip at all with that PLA tire so it's about time I got that sorted. With a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.06mm layer height I have begun printing the halves of the master tire to make a silicone mould with. It's gonna take a while though at this resolution... like... nearly 40 hours per side and that's not including the outer shell for the moulds which will at least be printed in a much lower resolution.
One side is done but still waiting on t'other. Enjoy a glam shot of it before post processing 😊
@divouneh Don't feel nobody is interested. If you're having fun sharing then do please continue :) The forum is a place of shared experiences and community 🤗
It's been a pleasure seeing something pop up in recent to read through especially while I'm out of action atm.
@fosterqc Omg yes that would be so cool. Would you keep the power side the same for authenticity or make it a sleeper build?
@divouneh Congrats on breaking new milestones.
Grass is pretty forgiving to ride so I'm sure you'll master that quickly. It's not as bad falling off at least 😅
It was finally time to add the XT30 😊 I've been putting this off for a veeeeeeeery long time.
And thankfully without issue (other than be knocking the headlight connector off) it woooooooooooorked!
SHE LIIIIIVES!!!! 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
I'm so happy it booted up fine. Batteries are a little lower than I thought so after a brief hiatus I'll rig up the charger and get it back to nominal. Unlike the XS I will be able to actually see the battery health too 😅
Woke up to some freshly printed parts. One in particular this fender delete. Might possibly be one of the largest prints on the resin machine I've done yet.
After post processing that a little I got the harness headers controller side fit and tested.
Lights in the front and rear all sink up so that's a bonus. No pic of the lights since I was holding wires together but trust me it looked fab. I just need to attach the battery connector now but I forgot I never painted the female end of the xt30. Trouble is painting these is really tedious. Too much and you ruin the finer details. Too little and you see the yellow.
I then remembered you can dye some plastics and would you know it these xt30's are made of nylon (or something very similar) which takes dye easy. A bowl of boiling water, some synthetic dye and about 10 minutes of stirring got me some really nice orange connectors!
Unlike paint it doesn't scratch off as easy which is a bonus and no more masking the tiny metal bits!
I ran out of time today to fit them so instead I'll leave you with some more cool pics of the XS and prototype GTXS together 🥰
GTXS sporting the new high kick rear pad and the fender delete now.
@lemur It's really hard not to 😅 Like I know inside some of the details like the "Destroy Boredom" on the inside of the bumper or the little FM branding on the controller will never be seen by most but it feels good to add it ^-^ Little easter eggs I guess.