@onewheelme Could you share a few pics of the charge port and the charger connector?

Also when it turns on are you able to connect with the app and see any errors?

@ahshwheel Hiya,

Are you able to upload a pic of the connector?

It's this button on the tool ribbon all the way on the right :)
aef7efa8-0f09-4ca5-9baf-ef277ab0c1ac-image.png

@lia i'll pass it on to the person. thanks!

[EDIT]: update -- they said:

"Thank you for that advice! So I got home and I opened it all up and everything looked great, unfortunately lol. I was hoping I would see something that was obvious but it looked pristine once I got the cover off. The good news is I got it to work… The bad news is… I don't know how. I started pushing down on things just to see if anything was loose and then all of a sudden the light comes on. A couple minutes later I was doing something and the light went off and then I pushed down again and the light came back on. so I went ahead and connected everything back together and the light stayed on and I was able to ride it but now I'm worried it's going to shut off. 😬😬😬 I can't trust it to ride it rn because I can only assume I would nosedive."

@lemur Thank you a thousand times!

@sirgu I wanted a few in case I lost some and a bit of variety in case I changed my mind on a vibe. Also @cheppy44 wanted some Orange ones so I got a bunch of others too ^-^

@babyjigs 3 checks I would definitely do are:

Connect to it with the app and see what battery percentage it's currently at. Anything between 40% and 60% is likely fine but not a guarantee. If it's fully charged or empty I'd be a little concerned that it's toast.

Next check is see if you can connect it to the OWCE app and see if the cells are within 0.1-0.2 volts of each other. Anything else might indicate a bad cell.

If you're able to take it for a test spin that would be good but won't tell you much other than it at least works.

It might be worth asking when he last used it and what percentage he left it at. Being an RC enthusiast he probably left it at a good level but worth checking as I've had batteries from "enthusiasts" that left the things at full for months 💀

@bulletxtime That's balanced enough. There is a little cell degradation since they should peak at 4.2 but that's expected for an old used battery so I'd say that's good to ride! :)

@lemur I'm surprised it's keyed since the plug is hard mounted to the PCB. Simple fix like you said.

Good idea limiting the current. Don't want them to burn up too soon D: I was tempted to try making some better GT headlights but since the LN2 XR based ones haven't even sold out yet I don't think I can justify it. Stock seems plenty anyway on a GT.

I've been using Seeeduino's and those are pretty fun yet tiny if you ever want to experiment with some other microcontrollers.

@loaffette yeah, this is definitely an interesting development -- and it sounds like more things are coming?

@sdmods Where did you get the Pint hex file?

@wheelslipwilly Hope it all works out :)
Welcome^-^ Someone had to bring it back ;)

@kallepetter Sorry for a late reply.
I ended up going with a higher voltage rated replacement for Q15:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/522-ZXTN19100CFFTA

This is the stock one:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/621-ZXTN25040DFHTA

For Q12, I got these:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/595-CSD19536KTT

@lmaloney Just in case. Have the connectors been resoldered yet? My personal XR had the front light issue but instead of the cable breaking the actual connector joints had cracked.

Other than that if it helps here's a schematic I tried to throw together measuring parts on mine when swapping the bits. I don't have the inductor values sadly.
16faa5cc-3cb6-4980-8147-83d56c25b214-image.png

Probably a more sensible way to lay this out but I'm still learning this stuff.

@d3solute I think read your post on discord, Stlink would have been an option, but there is no extractor patch in Rewheel for the XR so you may've extracted the bootloader
Since there is no extracted bootloader and settings for the XR available anywhere, I really think you may not have any options other than an used controller.

@lia clam shelled it again and more gorilla tape, it all works now

@reelwons Ouch that does sound like a bad pack. Lemur's suggestion is probably the best one as the replacement pack will still be good for a VESC build if you go down that route later.

It may be possible for it to be restored with replacement cells but you would need someone capable of dismantling the welds and then welding in new cells. Afterwards the board would recalibrating as disconnecting the battery from the BMS causes an error that disable the board till cleared.
https://www.fixmypev.com/diy/onewheel/gt/calibrate/
Just to re-iterate Lemur's point this only works on firmware versions prior to haptic buzz.

Pin 1 : SW+ (power switch)
Pin 2 : NC (Not connected)
Pin 3 : W+ (Rear light White +)
Pin 4 : R+ (Rear light Red +)
Pin 5 : NC (Not connected)
Pin 6 : BMS RX (BMS communication receive)
Pin 7 : Batt - (Battery -)
Pin 8 : Batt + (Battery +)
Pin 9 : CHGR + (Charge detection)
Pin 10 : NC (Not connected)
Pin 11 : W- (Rear light White -)
Pin 12 : R- (Rear light Red -)
Pin 13 : NC (Not connected)
Pin 14 : BMS TX (BMS communication transmit)
Pin 15 : Batt - (Battery -)
Pin 16 : Batt + (Battery +)

7e4f317a-4114-4264-adeb-8464691582c8-image.png

Another pic for good measure :) This is from my Plus.
cab3026e-d878-47ba-be5f-10038bbd7500-image.png

@endlessme Hiya,

The link sadly doesn't grant access to see but from the description that's a 100ohm resistor.

You should be able to upload the pictures here by just dragging it into the compose section or clicking the "upload image" icon.
06308603-127c-41ee-aa50-adb64f53adf8-image.png

@onesweedwheel By chance do you know anyone with a GT you could swap motors with and see if the fault follows the motor or the rest of the board?

Starting to wonder if something is up in the controller :(