Just wanted to close the loop. I got my CBXR up and running! I also [unnecessarily] changed the bearings while I had it apart and it's like a whole new board. Between the CBXR and the ReWheeled Quart I've been too busy having fun to report back.
Many thanks to @Lia and @vulkito for offering their knowledge and an extra special thank you to @Lemur for going above and beyond and mailing me some spare capacitors.
Photo Tax, because it will never look that clean ever again.
Slowly chipping away at the Dawn Patrol achievement.
Hey Y'all,
I've been going crazy trying to figure out what component I punted off my BMS while violently unplugging an XT60.
I tried following the great troubleshooting steps in the SMD Reference thread but I just got stuck in a loop of step 3 & 8 over and over again.
It is one of 15 duplicated components to the right side of the output XT60 and directly above the 6-pin connector.
(Not my actual BMS, just a reference image, don't panic)
The PCB silkscreen reads C11 and with the component missing and the connection open the 11th cell in any pack connected to the BMS reads as overcharged.
Based on the visual appearance and silkscreen code I'm assuming a capacitor, but that's not much to go off of. I can't find text on any sides of component and it measures 2mm x 1.5mm.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Lia!
You're likely right on the 1.2mm width, I didn't remove the conformal coating to measure.
I'm a bit hesitant to toss a 1uf capacitor on the board and call it good. From my limited research it's difficult to measure capacitance on soldered components.
I plan to enlist my EE friend who's much better as surface mount soldering than I am. Hopefully he can lift a capacitor or two to get an isolated reading.
Or we can just send it and see if OWIE reports cell 11 in line with the rest of the pack. ¯\__(ツ)_/¯
Anything else I should be planning for before I hand the BMS over? Thanks for getting me most of the way to the solution.
@lia said in BMS Component ID Help:
I've tried to de-solder mine with my reflow station but I can't seem to get enough heat there before the ground plane saps it all away so I can't measure one of mine for you sadly.
Ah bummer. That makes me a bit less optimistic that this will be an easy fix for him, but hey, it's not like he could break it much more.
It's crazy generous of you to try on my behalf though. Do you have some spares or did you tear into your board on a whim? (Or more logically, some experience from a past attempt.)
Feels like I should start searching for a spare myself, just in case. Maybe a dead board to keep costs down. =P
@lemur : I'm in MN, USA.
Would you be willing to toss a couple in the post? I would be more than happy to cover costs and buy you a long distance pint.
Fun writeup, thanks for sharing!
RE:Dogs and OWs. The article says the motor is silent, and I think that's part of the problem, they recognize a human, but their legs don't move and their body does. Instantly freaked out.
My dog mostly ignores the boards these days but she'll occasionally take a nip and my ankle as I pass by if she's in the mood to play.
That 124 Spider body is perfection! I love to see inexpensive cars get the full restoration treatment.
*waves excitedly *
Where are you located? Always looking to expand the local riding group (or alternatively, build a list of cool places to ride for weekend trips).
Witz Wheel in the US, eBay internationally, or get connected with local riders and figure out who has the largest stash of spare parts.
Best of luck!
I'm bummed to hear that. I've got a local shop ready to diagnose/repair, but I'm starting to contemplate how much it's worth to me.
I opened the controller for two reasons, to look for a quick fix, and to ensure the ferrite ring wasn't about to fry my controller. My controller is now safe, so I may just close it back up without a headlight and call it a day, the trails are calling.
Thanks so much for adding a confirmed ID for these.!
Surely I'm not the only joker that will damage one of those caps with that big ol' XT60 connector. Whoever does it next can enjoy some immediate gratification.
OK... slight tangent, but still fairly relevant to headlight failure in general.
Was experiencing flickering and dim white light up front so I opted to open the controller for diagnosis.
Zero signs of water damage (board was badgered before I tore it open), solder joints look "fine", and the ferrite ring wasn't pulling the connector bodies off the PCB (but it was squashing the controller side connector). So no smoking gun. Boo...
So, before I start replacing things and adding solder willy-nilly, I'd like to test the PCBA in isolation. Does anyone know the pinout and power requirements for the XR headlight circuit off hand?