@lemur very wise words re backup and is of course exactly what I didn’t do. Lesson learned!

It seems I have a very narrow sweet spot within which to engage the motor, which is easy to overshoot. Will get a sure start. Thanks for you help.

@studentde Job done. I enjoyed that.
I hope you can use it constructively. Thanks.

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@lia hiya, thank you so much for your detailed and helpful reply! I will have a look into everything you've said. I'll do a bit of reasearch into fixing it myself, and see how I feel about that first. Sounds like there are a few options there, so that's good to know!

Thanks again :)

@deeph Oh this might be a later model board where they removed that data :/
Give it a balance charge overnight and see if it improves much. Over time of leaving it a little longer after you see green you may claw back some range.

@lia Thank you!

@imgermg If you can turn on the board you may be able to use the OWCE app to check voltage.
https://owce.app/install

If not the only other way to measure is to take it apart and measure with a multimeter at the battery connector.
I have labelled the 2 pins you can measure without unplugging the battery but be careful not to short them.
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@charve You can use the Pint battery to test your Xr. I'm not familiar with th e torquebox setup, but you can put up to 27s1p 21700 cells in a stock (with slight mods) , I'm running 24s1p because I have an 100v charger from a dead EUC.IMG_9550[1].JPG

@fosterqc Omg yes that would be so cool. Would you keep the power side the same for authenticity or make it a sleeper build?

@blankman Dowgrading with stlink requires that you have extracted your bootloader and settings for the correct serial number, mileage.
If you use someone else's bootloader and settings then you need a special program to change the serial number, mileage.
After stlink, then you can Rewheel with encrpted file 5040, if you don't have the 5040 file then no point going any further.
What was your goal try to get into factory mode?

@lemur 24s1p sounds wild! Can't wait to see that ^-^

@vitahlity How old was the Pint ? What was the final sold price ?

@lia I was in contact with them by @ but since a few days it seems as if the contact has broken off, I will remind myself today ;) on their discord I also posted this topic, for now not too many hints https://discord.com/channels/731226901867266149/1064595548641964072. I handled it as gently as possible. The LEDs came to me not in a nice box like on the website, but rolled together in a protective film, the package was also missing a bag with thermo paste and a cloth. I don't know was it shipped like this, or was it repacked somewhere along the way. I do not have much possibility to resolder it.

@onedangts the offsets were locations within the official FM firmware. Problem is the firmware is encrypted, lol. Luckily, I found the right person who had the keys I needed and got it all to work! My factory GT bms is now reporting cell data to vesc. It's a beautiful day. Thank you for your efforts though!

More than just laser-etched S/N on rails matching to controller S/N ... don't they look after all the stickers and embedded labels all over other parts to verify it's the actual complete board? Not the one built to be appearing as 'complete' but broken. Following out of curiosity ...

@LOAFFETTE Sorry for your experience! I know I'm bad at creating new topics instead of bumping the old ones. If the forum ever has one alike.

But on that particular case I thought the thrill about video ~3 years back adds some context to it. Because its "FM x TFL" discussion point. Interestingly enough Bodhy have swiched sides in meanwhile. Yet we still haven't seen Tech-Rails, Craft&Ride, Land-Surf and many other 3rd parties even slightly featured in FM's social media as TFL now has repeatedly been.